I slept in for a couple of extra hours. I still felt tired but not nearly as fatigued as yesterday.

After lots of coffee and a hearty Jimmy Dean microwaved breakfast, which was quite good, I headed off to Jacksonville Beach.

The route was a familiar one: my Florida training ride along the beach through the Guana Tolomato Matanzas National Estuarine Research Reserve (GTM for short).

The homes lining the beach before and after GTM are prime real estate.  They vary in architectural style and are interesting to see.  Many of them have mailboxes framed by a large dolphin, manatee, or other sea creature. Some are occupied full-time; others are available for rent.

I made my usual stop at Mickler Beach Landing in Ponte Vedra Beach and then headed off to Jacksonville Beach.

As I entered Jacksonville Beach, I was met by Donnie Brzuska, the Chief Marketing and Communications Officer for Coast Guard Mutual Assistance. Donnie reached out to me after I decided to ride in fundraising support of CGMA. Donnie did a fabulous job of crafting daily synopses of my ride, and interacting with the media.

Donnie trailed me in a golf cart, taking video of my ride.

When we arrived at the Jacksonville Beach Fishing Pier, I was met by Herminia, our youngest son William, and my Academy classmate Dave Cannon. After our reunion and an exchange of hugs, Donnie took pictures, including this one:

Donnie interviewed me, intending to provide clips to local media.  On the next day, I had two neighbors say that they saw coverage of my ride on the local news.

As we wrapped up this stop, my family invited me to load my bike on our truck so they could drive me home.  I told them that I always intended to bike the rest of the way (about 2 miles).  They acknowledged my stubbornness and off we went.

We all arrived home at about the same time.  Mission complete for Phase One!

Tally for the day: 32 miles
Total for phase one: 562 miles

I woke up feeling pretty fatigued today. My legs felt like they didn’t like me anymore!

When I cycled across America, I took a day off every week to give my body time to recover.  I thought about taking today off and confirmed with the hotel that I could stay another night.  But that would have required me to deal with another weather front headed for Florida.  So I decided to take advantage of a good weather window. And I felt good enough to press on.

I hit the road and was pleased that I biked the first 10 miles without much effort.  Winds were very calm as indicated by the still waters in this picture:

Thanks to a posting to my Coast Guard Academy Class of 1978 classmates about my ride by our class correspondent Bryon Ing, I was contacted by a classmate who lived along my intended route for the day. I rode to the Ormand Beach area and rendezvoused with Mick Butler and his wife Sue.  We took a moment to catch up and Sue snapped this picture of Mick and me before we headed north.

Mick rode north with me for about 25 miles. He and Sue are fitness enthusiasts and exemplars for aging well. Mick was gracious in slowing the pace of his ride to match my fatigued state. On the trails, we were able to ride side-by-side and converse more about our lives and how blessed we are.

Mick turned back when I reached the 30 miles to go point. I appreciate him for his outreach and support, our longstanding kinship as classmates, his inspiring character, and the fitness mentoring tips he shared.  Go ’78!

The rest of today’s ride was uneventful. I crossed into St. Augustine over the Bridge of Lions.  I noted that the lion statues have been temporarily removed for renovation.  I took a moment to take in the beauty of this historic city.

When I arrived at my hotel in Vilano Beach, I was given permission to take my bike to my room since there was no bicycle rack.  I gave the bike a good cleaning before doing that.

Tomorrow is the last day of Phase One. I planned this stop near St. Augustine so that I’ll have less than 35 miles to get to my final destination. I plan to sleep late to alleviate some fatigue.

Tally for the day: 75 miles

Today’s wind chill is in the low 30’s!  I triple-layered on top but remained in shorts since my legs were still “feeling the burn” from the previous day’s ride.  My jacket has a hood, which provided additional protection for my head.

I began the ride early because I know it would be a long day in the saddle.  I fought the wind for most of the day, although winds tapered towards the end of my ride.

After 10 miles, I was biking through a rural setting, passing cattle farms. Those cows looked cold.  I was sufficiently comfortable, even sweating a little under my layers.

Google maps tried to route me to paths that paralleled a railroad, and through a neighborhood that eventually led me to a dead end. The railroad path was a sand road, pictured below.  I watched a couple of cars drive over it so I thought that it was compacted.  No such luck!  I felt like I was bicycling in a sandbox and quickly turned around.

G-map failures probably added an additional five miles to my trip today.  But I’ll continue to use it because it’s easier than following the turn-by-turn instructions on my paper map. And it’s generally better at getting me from point A to B in a more direct route.

I had the chance to bike through the parking area of the Brevard Zoo.  There were scores of kids with their parents heading towards the entrance.  I was uplifted by the excitement evident on the faces of many of these children.  I stopped to snap a picture with one of the zoo’s displays:

For today’s pleasant surprise, I cycled through about 50 miles of Florida’s rails-to-trails routes.  These trails are outstanding!  They’re quiet and lined on each side with foliage, which today provided a partial wind block.  Some of the trails are on raised platforms to minimize the impact on the animals:

Some of the trails took me in a northwest direction.  My wife, who tracks me on a GPS device, called to ask if I was lost.  I told her that I was enjoying trail riding and expected to head northeast soon. There were few bikers and walkers on the trail so I saw lots of animals, including deer, snapping turtles, and an armadillo digging on the side of the trail.

When I arrived in New Smyrna Beach, I entered a very picturesque town.  The hotel attendant mentioned that it’s a “drinking town.” No drinks for me!  But I did enjoy another Italian meal.

Tally for the day: 89 miles

I enjoyed a good night’s sleep… up at 0500 (5 am)!

My phone received an alert that a small craft advisory had been posted for the day. I could hear the wind whirring outside my window. I stepped outside the door and it was COLD!  I decided to add a long sleeve layer to my top but stay in shorts.

As I began cycling, I noticed how clean the bike lanes medians were thanks to the previous night’s rain.

The wind was brutal.  On one occasion, I was buffeted by a side gust and had to stop for a moment.  I normally cruise at about 12-13 miles per hour.  Today, I was lucky to hit 6-7 mph.  While today was as punishing as expected with the wind and the cold, my legs continued to perform well.

On typical sunny days, I prefer to ride in the shade because it’s cooler.  Not today!  Riding in the shade was frigid!  My legs were numb from successive days of riding so they never felt cold. I felt the cold mainly on my fingers (I wear short-finger cycling gloves) and face.

Today’s added challenge was the relative lack of available rest stops.  On a particular 20-mile stretch, I passed an unbroken string of posh gated communities. No stores, no gas stations, no public beach access, no wooded areas appropriate for an unauthorized stop! Such circumstances sometimes compel cyclists to do rash things. I chose to respect the neighborhood and waited until I saw a public beach park with public restrooms.  Here’s a picture of Golden Sands Beach Park.  Note the red flag warning:

Today’s ride was very safe with one exception: This picture shows a sign warning drivers about cyclists.  What it told me is that my bike lane disappeared on the upcoming overpass.  I waited until traffic was clear before heading up the overpass.

I crossed into Melbourne by taking a large bridge over the Indian River. This was into the teeth of the wind. I stopped a couple of times on the incline and was graced with the sight of cormorants diving for fish. And then a pod of dolphins swam by. It was a nice end to a punishing day.

When I arrived at the hotel, I got cleaned up and headed to dinner with my Coast Guard Academy Class of 1978 classmate, Carl Priddy. Carl and I enjoyed a fabulous dinner at Pane E Vino Italian Restaurant. We recounted the good times we had at the academy. I appreciate Carl for his fellowship and for giving me the opportunity to decompress in the company of a good friend.

Tally for the day: 56 miles

Today began as another good day for me physically. I was excited to get out on the road this morning. This is the point where cycling becomes a joy even with all of the challenges.

Speaking of challenges, winds were forecast to kick up at 10 am and rain at 6 pm.

I dashed off to Fort Pierce. Winds began to get fierce as 10 am approached.  I just kept peddling, shifting to lower gears as necessary.

Cyclists tend to notice all sorts of clues about what the wind is doing such as the direction that flags and landscaping flags are blowing or the way debris is blowing across the freeway (or into my face!). This American flag told me what I already knew: I was cycling directly against the wind:

For the first time on this trip, I observed that my heart rate was trending much lower while cycling. And my cadence (pedal revolutions per minute) was trending higher. This means that I was getting fitter: able to go faster and farther with less exertion. My bike computer displays a recovery time at the end of each day’s ride.  That time was also trending much lower.

Cycling into the wind, I didn’t experience what is referred to as a second wind. That’s where I achieve an unexpected burst of energy and power and associated emotional high well into a ride. But today I had plenty of strength and power to spare.

Google maps tried to route me through Dickinson State Park. As I approached the entrance gate, two rangers asked me about my destination. They informed me that I was headed to a dead end after about five miles.  I thanked them profusely for saving me from needlessly cycling 10 miles.

As I entered Monroe County, I experienced miles of low rolling hills. I was able to power through them with relative ease.

While remaining vigilant, I couldn’t help but chronicle the debris I saw in the road medians: cooler tops, shredded tires, road kill, nails and bolts of all sizes, and lots of sand and rocks. I dodged as much as I could.

I continued to enjoy the wildlife: cranes, turtles, cranes, and a few iguanas.

As I passed through one town, I observed a gentleman on a 3-wheeled adult bicycle. He must have been in his mid-80s. He peddled steadily and had a look of resolve on his face.  I wondered whether that could be me in 10-15 years time. Hope so!

When I crossed the Loxahatchee River in Jupiter, FL, I saw Jupiter Lighthouse in the distance:

I also noticed the line of dark clouds well to the north of me, an indication of changing weather.  I arrived in Fort Pierce in advance of the expected rain.  My hotel was nice enough but it was located in what can best be described as a city dead zone–everything around it was shuttered except for a Mexican restaurant next door.  That place served great food at a great price!

I spent time reviewing the weather forecast, especially the expected cold front.  And I booked a hotel in Melbourne for the following day.

Tally for the day: 48 miles

Today I woke up feeling like a million bucks! As expected, my body is adjusting to bicycle touring again.

I booked a room in North Palm Beach. I checked the weather, noting a very cold and blustery forecast in the coming days.

I departed before the hotel became active. I reversed the process of getting my bike and panniers down to the hotel entrance–this time with no challenges.

As I rode through the city, I passed through Hialeah and Little Haiti.  The vibe of these neighborhoods reminded me of my own while growing up in Washington, DC.  Customs are similar where passersby are expected to acknowledge others. I frequently smiled, waved, or said “Hey, how’s it going?” and received similar responses.

Google maps routed me on a more direct journey on state roads with decent bike lanes. My legs were very strong and virtually pain free. The winds were not a big factor.

I didn’t stop much during my 80+ mile journey.  But I did take note of this prominent feature on the horizon as I got close to Hollywood, Florida.  It’s the guitar-shaped Seminole Hard Rock Hotel and Casino.  I had seen it advertised on television.  But seeing it in person is a sight to behold.

When I arrived at my hotel, I had plenty of energy. I did laundry and ordered Chicken Parmesan with spaghetti for delivery. This meal from Viva Italian Pizza was superb! And I had leftovers (I ate them for breakfast the next morning).  I mapped out the remainder of my Phase One stops, making adjustments for anticipated weather.

Tally for the day: 87 miles

I woke up with muscle aches and fatigue.  My body told me that I was approaching that fine line between building fitness and tearing it down. My mind said, “Too bad. This is Day 3.  Get over it!”

I took a moment to search for hotels and campsites in the Miami Beach area but was frustrated with the results.  So I decided to head out on the bike and plan where to stay on the fly.

My legs performed well but I was clearly exhausted.

As I approached Miami, I traveled along an extensive network of bike paths and bike lanes.  There was some sidewalk riding as well.

I did encounter a few obstacles.

The first picture shows a low clearance under a bridge.  I had to “strike the American flag” and walk the bike under the bridge while ducking. On the opposite side, I was confronted with steps. I’m an engineer but I cursed those who came up with this design in the middle of an otherwise pleasant bike path.

Also, I am not a big fan of riding on sidewalks but it often is necessary to stay safe.  Most sidewalks provided a reasonably smooth ride. But I encountered sidewalks with those elevated ridges created by tree roots.  To a cyclist, this feels like riding over a series of speed bumps. Every jolt adds to fatigue and hand numbness.

As I approached Miami proper, I passed through familiar neighborhoods such as Coconut Grove. During my Coast Guard career, my family and I spent a glorious 4-1/2 years in Miami.

I then connected to the bike paths that exist under Miami’s Metrorail system.  They’re clearly the best paths I’ve experienced to date (they’re wide and very smooth). Here’s a picture of some of Miami’s skyline from under the Metrorail:

When I stopped to take this picture, I again checked for hotels in Miami Beach. Most of the available places were hostels where I’d have to sleep in a multi-occupant barracks style room. I chose to keep that experience in my distant past so I booked a room at the Miami Hilton.

I enjoyed the challenge of biking through downtown Miami streets. It’s a vibrant city and traffic was congested and the sidewalks were packed with people going about their daily routine.  I encountered numerous delivery robots. As I approached to pass, the robots seemed confused by a bicyclist, often freezing in their path.  They’re simply hilarious!  I snapped this picture:

Congestion allowed me to zip past cars and get to my destination quicker than if I was driving.

When I arrived at the hotel, there were a few high priced cars lined up at the valet station.  I asked the valet if the hotel had a bike rack.  His answer was no.  So I leaned my bike up against a very nice feature wall outside the hotel entrance and walked into the hotel.  Hotel security asked me where I was going and I said that I was checking in.

At check in, the agent asked me if I had a car.  I said that I arrived on a high-priced bike that I needed to bring up to my room because they have no bike racks.  He gave me a confused answer that I liberally interpreted as an authorization. And he gave me a room on the 18th floor.

I went to the room (very nice) and returned to the hotel entrance to carry my panniers up.  I then went to retrieve my bike. Hotel security challenged me again and I told him that registration told me that I could bring my bike to my room.

As I walked my bike towards the elevators, another security agent challenged me. I gave him my room number and told him that I was authorized to bring the bike to my room.  I was polite but firm and he acknowledged my intent. I recognize that I stood out as an anomaly as compared to the other guests. I wasn’t frustrated but I did assert my rights as a paying customer.

My bike enjoyed a stunning view of the city:

Tally for the day: 35 miles

I woke up with aching leg muscles.  Nothing serious–just another aspect of the ordeal.  From my TransAmerica biking experience, I know that the first three days of cycling are the toughest. And then my body adjusts to the punishment of long distance cycling.

Today’s winds were forecast to be challenging. I set out for Florida City and had a relatively uneventful journey.

I used Google maps to navigate while checking beforehand with my printed Adventure Cycling Association route maps.  G-maps is good but it doesn’t reflect realtime conditions. Often enough, I encountered obstructions like this on the trail:

As I biked along, I heard countless creatures rustling in the brush.  Over time, I could distinguish the rustling of small anoles (lizards), larger iguanas, squirrels, and an occasional deer.  I often saw iguanas out in the open but they dashed into the brush with surprising speed as I approached. The exception was a very large (2+ feet long) bright orange iguana that menacingly stood its ground on my bike trail.  I considered stopping to take a picture but chose not to provoke the creature as I rode around it.

Google maps routed me to Card Sound Road as I turned towards the mainland.  I guessed that the excessive traffic on the Overseas Highway was the reason.  In any event, Card Sound Road doesn’t have bike lanes. Fortunately, there was little traffic so I cruised through the 15 miles with minimal effort. As I made the turn towards the north, I was greeted by pushing winds.  I smiled all the way to Florida City.

Tally for the day: 75 miles

I enjoyed a good night’s sleep except for a 2:30 am battle with a tiny spider (I think I won!).

After checking my weather apps, I knew that it would be a challenging day bicycling into the wind. My goal was to bike 100 miles to a campsite in Key Largo but I knew that this was overly aggressive given expected winds.

After loading everything on the bike, I headed out.

First stop was a hardware store to pick up fuel for my mini-stove for camping.

Second stop was the Mile Marker Zero sign:

Third stop was the buoy marking the Southernmost Point in the Continental United States where a kind tourist snapped this photo:

And then I was off to the Overseas Highway.  I enjoyed a smooth ride north until the wind picked up towards noon as forecasted.

Biking along the O’Seas Highway requires keen focus–it’s not a straight shot.  Cyclists must cross the busy highway a few times to connect to pedestrian bridges or bike trails.  This was a bit unnerving even for this experienced cyclist because of heavy traffic, the lack of crosswalks, and the two pedestrian bridges unexpectedly closed for construction.

Some of the bike trails along the route are lined with trees and vegetation that served as a much appreciated wind break.

Here’s a picture of one of the pedestrian bridges, which are very nice, and often populated with individuals fishing (with pelicans perched on the rails as bystanders):

Bicycling the Seven Mile Bridge was a hoot!  Beforehand, I stopped at Veterans Memorial Park for a rest break. As I approached the bridge, I put my head down and keep peddling into the wind.  I suspended any thoughts about “when is this going to end?” Here’s a view from the bridge toward Marathon in the distance:

Before long, I entered Marathon.  By this time, it was mid afternoon and I was tired after biking into the wind. I still had 50 miles to go to my destination.

I decided to stop at Coast Guard Station Marathon to take a break.  After appropriate security challenges, I was granted access and met by the Officer of the Day, Machinery Technician Second Class Karol Fonseca.

We talked about our families and career experiences. I was uplifted by Karol’s leadership, character, professionalism, and dedication. My interaction with him reinforced the main reason why I am fundraising for Coast Guard Mutual Assistance.

Here’s a selfie that Karol took with me:

When I told Karol about my intended destination for the day, he said, “Admiral, I advise you to stay off the roads as dusk approaches.” He talked about recent drunk driving incidents involving pedestrians and cyclists. And I had noticed more than a few roadside memorials as I headed north. He informed me about a resort next door to the station that caters to Coasties.

While I didn’t need a lot of convincing, I heeded Karol’s wise advice and headed off to the resort.  Unfortunately, it was booked up for the night.  So I got on the phone and, after a few online “not available” notices, I found an available resort 15 miles north. I stopped for a fast food dinner. Then I headed off to Duck Key, arriving there with plenty of daylight to spare.

The resort was very nice, and very pricey.  But it was worth it to me to stay safe and get a good night’s rest.  I’m sure I looked out of place walking through the hotel in my cycling attire while carrying my panniers. 

I got cleaned up, revised my itinerary, and turned in for a good night’s sleep.

Tally for the day: 65 miles.

Here’s a photo I took of the view from my room the next morning.  These resorts are really nice but I had miles to go and no time to enjoy the amenities.

Today I flew to Key West with my touring bicycle, a Kona Sutra, and stuff needed to begin the ride north.  Here’s a picture of me at the airport with my carry-on “luggage.” Yes, TSA does allow bike helmets and cleated bike shoes through security!

My flight was delayed so American Airlines gave me the last seat on an earlier flight to Miami, my connecting city.  My checked bag would follow on the delayed flight. I instinctively knew that my checked bag wouldn’t arrive in Key West when I did.

My flight to Key West left on time.  An Airtag showed that my bike had arrived in Miami but wasn’t loaded on my plane. C’est la vie!

The view of the Florida Keys from the air was awesome. Here’s a picture of one of the many bridges in the Overseas Highway:

When I arrived at Key West Airport, I dutifully went to baggage claim hoping that my bike somehow made it to Key West.  The baggage claim area was severely overcrowded.  My bike wasn’t anywhere to be seen. I found a less congested area and filled out the online delayed baggage form.

Afterwards, I went back to baggage claim and found an American Airlines employee at the baggage counter.  I explained my situation to Tracy, who was most helpful. She gave me a forecasted time when my bike would arrive and committed to having it delivered to my hotel soon afterwards.

My original plan was to assemble my bike at the airport and ride to the hotel.  No plan survives first contact!  So Lyft to the hotel it is! I took this picture to illustrate my frustration of not yet knowing what condition my bike would be when it arrived:

I made it to the hotel, ate dinner, and patiently awaited a call from the baggage delivery company. The airline tracking site indicated that the bike could arrive at the hotel as late as after 10 pm–oh my! But just after 6 pm, I received a call from Judy saying that she had my bike and was on her way.

When Judy arrived, she readily noted the glee on my face.  She mentioned that most people complain to her about baggage delays even though she doesn’t work for the airlines. Judy, a Marine veteran, told me that the airline had called her to deliver my bike first.  After opening up the bike case and quickly checking the bike, I thanked her profusely and tipped her well.

I rushed off to my room to get ready for the next day’s mission.  I found a TSA inspection card in my bike case.  Here’s the assembled bike in my room:

Here’s an inspiring picture from my hotel room.  I took it as a good sign:

Even with logistical challenges, my Day Zero successes were enabled by three terrific women: the American agent who didn’t have to switch me to an earlier flight to Miami, and Tracy and Judy who went out of their way to support this disabled veteran by getting me my bike earlier than expected.