Days 26: Berea, KY, to Booneville, VIRGINIA

Today’s ride of 50 miles began with a long climb of about 5 miles to Bighill (a town appropriately named).

As with much of the week, the day began with clouds, mist, and a bit of drizzle:

As the day wore on (and we either climbed or descended) the weather improved:

Near the top of “Big Hill,” I experienced my first flat tire of this 1/2 of the journey:

After fixing the flat tire (a small rock or other debris in the median had caused a minor puncture in the tire and tube), I entered this appropriately named county:

The scenery was awesome along the way:

When Matthew and I arrived in Booneville, KY, we set up camp behind the First Presbyterian Church.  This was yet another small town church that made special accommodations for bicyclists.

We enjoyed a fine dinner prepared from supplies purchased at The Dollar Store (in many small towns, TDS included groceries). Dinner consisted of ham and cheese sandwiches and oranges.

Since the impacts of Subtropical Storm Alberto had lingered over the area, it had rained almost every night.  On this night, we guessed that it wouldn’t rain: 

It was a very hot night and we went to sleep sweating in our tents.  Near dawn, it did begin to rain and I moved my tent under the shelter.

Days 27: Booneville to Hindman, VA

Today’s journey was 54 miles and included progressively higher climbs as we entered the Appalachian Mountains.

Along the way, I met a family of five riding two bicycles (a tandem and a tandem with 3rd rider extension).  The kids ranged from about 4 to teenager.  As I was descending a steep slope, they were climbing it (by walking their bicycles; mom’s tandem had a trailer loaded down with gear).  I spoke with Mom and Dad and they were excited about the great adventure.  The younger kids, based on their expressions, weren’t so enthused.  I’m confident that their adventure will go down in the annuls of that family’s lore.

During a McDonald’s stop (waiting out yet another rainstorm), Matthew and I were greeted by two young male bicyclists who were very attentive to the lessons we shared.  Their eagerness and enthusiasm were infectious.

During the middle portion of the journey, I broke a spoke on the rear wheel.  I wasn’t too concerned given my previous experience and simply pushed on.

I didn’t take too many pictures today because it was a long one.  I was very patient with the climbs, stopping as necessary to catch my breath or simply cool off.

During this trip, I’ve encountered many horses along the way.  This one seemed especially excited about potential human interaction so I stopped to have a chat with it:

When I arrived in Hindman, Matthew was already settled at the Hindman Student Ministries. We had been referred there by Hindman Baptist Church since their hostel was not available on that day.  We were greeted by Seth and the Youth Minister, Steve.  They provided everything a cyclist could want (shower, kitchen, power, and coffee).

There was a youth program in progress that provided musical entertainment for us that evening.  I also met the father of some of the participating youth (he had five kids). He asked me about the Coast Guard Academy.

After replacing the spoke, I enjoyed a pizza from Paradise Pizza across the street (the only restaurant in town).

Matthew and I chose a couple of the couches to sleep on.  I later figured out that mine was a futon (lucky me!).

Days 28: Hindman to Elkhorn City, VA

Today was a 63-mile day, again with increasingly higher and more challenging climbs (four of them to be exact but who’s counting!).  

Early in the journey, Matthew and I ran across an ice cream shop. I enjoyed a most refreshing cone of black cherry soft serve ice cream.  Because of the climbs, we became accustomed to taking more breaks.

We often biked through long stretches of farmland or forest with no easy access to shelter.  We were blessed to be at the right place at the right time when it was apparent that severe weather was about to strike.  On the previous day, I arrived at a BP station in a little town called Hazard, KY, just moments before a severe wind and rain storm. 

Today, I saw this church, Glory Bound Freewill Baptist Church, looked up to the heavens, and decided that this would be a good rain stop:

Moments later, the wind kicked up and the rain came thundering down. This church provided an additional blessing (see the water spigot on the wall between the column and my bike), as I was running low on drinking water.

Here’s the vista from one of those climbs:

When I arrived in Elkhorn City, I was greeted by the symbol of the town:

Matthew was already there at a local church talking to a man named Terry, a coal entrepreneur (started his first business at the age of 21). He said that the church had no facilities. But, he called over a friend who called the mayor and secured permission for us to stay at city hall.

The mayor said that the door would be open and we could use the facility after the conclusion of a fitness class that ended at 7:10 pm.  We enjoyed dinner at Subway, and sure enough, walked into city hall and enjoyed a great stay there.  

Here’s yet another example of the incredible kindness of people like Mayor Mike Taylor.  Amazing!

We decided to stay in Elkhorn City instead of camping at The Breaks Interstate Park because of the certain threat of rain.  Once in city hall, the rain began and continued for most of the night.  Matthew and I once again counted our blessings!

Days 29: Elkhorn City to Rosedale, VA

Today’s short (49-mile) ride started with a climb to The Breaks Interstate Park with its stunning vistas:

As I climbed the next hill, lo’ and behold, I saw the last state welcome sign of the journey:

This was a high-five moment for Matthew and me. While this is a remarkable trip, we dearly miss our families.

Most of the early portion of the trip was rainy and drizzly. Since we were in the mountains, we energized our rear lights so passing motorists could see us.  

Along the way, I stopped at a diner for a cheeseburger and potato slices.  It was the only food joint for miles and it had only been open three weeks.  The place was packed with people!

I stopped at another church for a rain delay (heavy rain).

When I arrived in Rosedale, I was greeted by this sign marking a 20-year old hostel hosted by the Elk Garden United Methodist Church:

We stayed in the church hall at the back of the sanctuary.  There was a gazebo with picnic tables for our bikes, a full kitchen (with food and snacks), and a shower.  This is yet another great place for weary bicyclists to stop! And one more church to which I must send a thank you letter.

I took the opportunity to perform some maintenance on the bike, including adjusting the rear brakes that had gotten so much use riding down steep slopes and through hairpin turns. I should note that the last hill I climbed today was in conjunction with a summit called Big A Mountain.  How appropriate!

Days 30: Rosedale to Troutdale, VA

Today’s goal was to ride the 62 miles to Troutdale.  

The first third of the ride was pleasant as we followed a stream (uphill of course):

During the second third, Matthew convinced me to take a detour called the Virginia Creeper Trail. 

There were many bicyclists and hikers on the trail and it was nice to have the more frequent human interaction.  And it was a beautiful ride with many bridges across rivers and streams.  But I still don’t like gravel because the vibrations tend to increase numbness in my hands and arms.  I persevered through this portion.

Matthew and I enjoyed lunch at the Damascus Diner. 

Damascus struck me as similar to the towns in Northern Virginia.  As compared to earlier in this trip, there are more SUVs than pick up trucks.  Farmers and ranchers have been replaced by predominately city folk.  More cars pass us with their music blasting.  Homes now have security system signs prominently displayed.  Things seem drastically different as we get closer to the East Coast.

During the third third of the ride, there weren’t any good water stops and I found myself going into my reserve water for the first time this year.  It wasn’t overly hot but the increasing pace of climbing requires greater water consumption.

I continued to enjoy the aroma of honeysuckle and stopped to take in the scent of this massive hedge:

After Damascus, the landscape returned to farmland:

When I got to Troutdale and took the programmed left turn.  I saw a church on my right but thought that the town would be after the programmed turn (using Adventure Cycling Association maps).  I climbed another mile-long hill and decided that I had been misled by the map. I didn’t have cell service so I couldn’t check Google Maps. So I flagged down a passing motorist who verified that I needed to turn back. I hate wrong turns; especially when they involving steep climbs!

I zoomed down one hill only to have to climb another hill to get to that church.  At the top, I found Matthew and an Appalachian Trail hiker named Joe from Pennsylvania (he retired from the Postal Service after 40 years). 

They had taken up residence in a beautiful hostel facility provided by Troutdale Baptist Church. I appreciated the special touches provided at this hostel: towels for the shower, coffee in the cabins, pillows and pillow cases, and an actual clothes line with clothes pins.

We enjoyed an evening of camaraderie. I learned a lot from Joe about the nuances of Appalachian hiking (probably not something that I plan to add to the bucket list though!).

Days 31 & 32: Troutdale to Christianburg, VA (Are we there yet?)

Today, Matthew and I decided to go for it.  We agreed that if we could get to Christianburg, then we could take a day off. 

The trip ended up being over 92 miles long. And, more significantly, it encompassed a seemingly never ending series of mini-climbs that totaled over a mile of elevation gain. (Said another way, the effort it takes to climb 100 52-feet high steep hills is essentially  the same that it takes to climb one mile-long hill).

For me, this was the longest day of this half of the TransAmerica Trail (I was on the bike for 10 hours). 

I enjoyed some great downhill rides early in the day. Again, our day started with clouds and the threat of rain.  But my first descent brought us sunshine.

For a time, I paralleled I-81. And then I swung north to Radford, VA.  The route took me through Wildwood Park where a local photographer stopped me and took my picture.

Since I was riding for most of the day, I didn’t take a lot of photographs.  Here’s a couple of scenery shots:

When I arrived in Christianburg, a fairly large town, I called Matthew and discovered that our hotel was another 3.9 miles south of town.  He was there to greet me when I peeled myself off the bike.

We enjoyed a most delicious meal of meatloaf at Cracker Barrel.  

I spent the day off resting my aching muscles, updating this blog, and performing a deep cleaning of the bicycle.

For dinner on our rest day, we ate all-you-can-eat popcorn shrimp at Fatback Soul Shack. The meal included unlimited sides and I enjoyed collard greens, green fried tomatoes, chili, and sweet potato casserole.

This meal will fortify me for tomorrow when it’s back on the road to Yorktown, VA!