Day 0: Flying to Garden City, KS

Today, I flew American Airlines from Washington Reagan to Garden City, KS, airport with a connection in Dallas. My day started off with a 5:30 am call from American indicating that my flight to Dallas had been cancelled because of predicted bad weater.  They were trying to rebook me to arrive in Garden City at around 11 pm.  That wouldn’t have been a good way to start so I convinced them to book me on an earlier flight to Dallas so that I could make the same connection that I already had.

My wife drove me to the airport an hour earlier than planned.  After a warm goodbye, I headed into the terminal. 

I was a bit anxious about taking all my electronics, batteries, and freeze-dried foods through TSA but I made it though with ease.

My flight to Dallas was delayed for about 45 minutes and I received a text from American Airlines saying that I was likely to miss my connection to Garden City.  When I arrived at Dallas, I scampered to another terminal to see if my connection was still there.  Although the information screen indicated that the flight was on time, I was relieved when I arrived to find that the connection was actually running late since the pilot had arrived at the airport yet.  

I settled in on the commuter aircraft and enjoyed a “lunch” of airline pretzels and some delicious poundcake baked by my wife.

When I arrived in Garden City, my first challenge was that there are no taxis waiting for arriving passengers.  I called the hotel and found out that Maria owned one of the two taxi companies.  After checking Uber (there was one in town but too expensive and too far away), I called Maria and arranged a pick up in 10 minutes.  While waiting, I noted the stiff wind blowing outside (see picture below):

The wind was blowing from the north and that was the direction that I needed to bike towards the next day.

Since I knew that I would run out of daylight if I was to assemble the bike and ride to Target, I arranged to have Maria drop me off there on the way to the hotel.  She was very gracious in supporting me and I was able to pick up some camping fuel that I had purchased online.

When I arrived at the hotel, I was overjoyed to find my bike in a box stored behind the reception counter.  Here’s a shot of the boxed bike, packed courtesy of Jacob at Bikenetic:

Forgive my unusual excitement about a box, but it’s presence at the right place at the right time demonstrates that the success of this type of endeavor relies on good logistics.  Bikeflights.com is my new go-to company to ship a bike where ever I need it!

After getting to my hotel room, the first thing I did was to uncrate the bike parts.  After a moment of panic when I thought that the front bike rack was missing (it was cradled under the back tire), I was satisfied that everything made it in great shape! 

I ate a burger and fries at a Mexican Restaurant, El Zarape.  I took special note that the beef for the burger was very fresh.  After dinner, I was exhausted, so I decided to assemble the bike and pack all my stuff in the morning.

Day 1: Bicycling to Scott City, KS, to Rejoin the TransAmerica Route

I sprang up at 6 am and assembled the bike and packed my panniers (the bike luggage).  I went for a very satisfying test ride.  I cut up the bike box and tossed it in the dumpster.  I gave Rick at the hotel front desk my luggage and duffel bag that I no longer needed. I consumed coffee, a banana and oatmeal at the breakfast provided by the hotel.  I was on the road by 9:30 am.

For four and one-half hours, I battled the wind riding north to Scott City.  My bike computer died (it must have been accidentally turned on during travel), so I was situationally unaware of how far I had left to go during the journey but I knew that I was heading north. I stopped a couple of times to check Google Maps on my phone. 

The picture below shows the bike with a leaner pack (no backpack in the back). It also shows the 8-feet wide medians that I enjoyed during this particular ride.  Note the direction and ferocity of the wind as shown by the flag:

In spite of the wind, I enjoyed the sights, smells, and sensations of the ride.  I saw and heard blackbirds and greeted two beautiful tan horses and many cows. 

I came across large stockyards.  I guessed from the sign below that these weren’t milking cows:

As I rode up to the fence line, there were many cows there.  As I approached closer, they were unusually skittish, and ran en mass away from me.  I surmised that they could sense that I had eaten one of their kin the night before!

I encountered a very large badger that looked like it was sleeping in the median (I think it was dead but didn’t stop to check).  

I was surrounded by the smell of agriculture and didn’t even mind the wafts of cow manure along the way.  On the negative side, I instinctively braced for potential slime attacks as several swine trucks passed me. But there was no repeat of the slime incident from my past.

In terms of sensations, it was a very peaceful ride.  The legs felt good.  Heart rate and cadence were in the zone.  The bike performed masterfully. I had done everything necessary to ensure a good re-start of this journey.

As I rode into Scott City, I was compelled to stop by the hospital to pay homage to those who treated me there. This photo shows just how beautiful a day it was outside, with temperatures roughly 40 degrees cooler than the last time I was in Scott City.

I planned to stay at the Scott City Athletic Club and was greeted by Debbie upon my arrival.  Debbie was very supportive of me during my last stay at the club, along with her team, Chris, Esme, and Chris (son of the first Chris).  They arranged for me to sleep on a mattress in the gymnasium, a very cool and quiet place.  

I ate a fish sandwich and salad at Tate’s Restaurant. When I returned to the Athletic Club, I recharged my electronics and hit the sack.

Day 2: Back on the TransAmerica Trail!

I was excited to get back on the trail so I got up early, stowed my gear, ate a banana, and hit the road.   It was about 40 degrees outside with a cloudless sky.

During the first hour, the temperature increased 20 degrees. I was passed by only 10 cars and 3 trucks.  I enjoyed a favorable wind.

Over the course of 55 miles to Ness City, KS, I enjoyed a very serene ride. 

Once again, I appreciated scenes of American agriculture at work:

As tractors and other heavy equipment were plowing and tilling the fields, I would either time my approach to avoid the plume of dust (dirt) or simply hold my breath.  The level of effort required to feed us is amazing!

I endeavor to stop at all historical markers along the way.  This one was especially significant to me:

I arrived in Ness City by noon and checked in with the Sheriff’s Office to arrange to camp at City Park.  After cleaning up, I went to the local U.S. Post Office to charge up my devices. I couldn’t help notice the history of this post office:

When I arrived back at camp, I was greeted by another touring cyclist, Matthew Moran, a delightful gentleman from Bristol, England.  Matthew was the first cycling I’ve encountered during this trip and our meeting was a most pleasant surprise. 

Matthew started his journey east in San Francisco, dipping south to capture Route 66 and avoiding the snow-packed mountains to the north.  Matthew was riding to support British veterans (in tribute to his father-in-law who is a veteran) so we made an instant connection. Matthew is married with two sons.  His profession is metal works and he is a foreman.  We retired to the local bar (I drank coke) where we agreed to ride together. 

Leaving Matthew at the bar, I departed to enjoy dinner at a local Mexican Restaurant, eating traditional food this time (it was very good!).

Day 3: Riding With the Bristol Bicyclist!

Today we rode 64 miles to Larned, KS.

The Adventure Cycling Association had posted a detour to avoid a road that had rumble strips installed in the median. On the advice of last year’s bicycling partner, Jayden, we decided to avoid the detour since it entailed gravel roads. Since today is a Sunday, we enjoyed a virtually traffic-free ride, staying on the white line.  Passing motorists were most kind in passing us and we acknowledged their courtesy with a wave of appreciation. On a normal traffic day, I do think that conditions for a bicyclist are more dangerous because the rumble strips take up most of the very narrow median.

Along the way, I noted the growing wind energy business in Kansas:

I also took this picture which reminded me of  a “little house” on the prairie:

As we approached Larned, we ran into another TransAmerica cyclist, Charlie, at a rest stop.  Charlie is originally from Peoria, IL, and lives in Oregon. Charlie started his journey riding trails from Oregon. He was riding a trail bike with fat tires.  He’s a fine carpenter and he has two sons.  Charlie was heading with some urgency to Newton, KS, to rendezvous with his son, Cole.  Charlie decided to join us at our camp in Larned.

After making camp, I enjoyed back-to-back camp lunch and dinner.  Lunch consisted of Ramen soup.  Dinner consisted of beef stew.

As Matthew, Charlie, and I were doing what touring cyclists need to do before sunset, we were approached by a man, David, who drove into the park with a camper. David, who appeared to be quite intelligent, was a bit too curious for comfort. His camper appeared to be minimally serviceable.  David initially said that he had lost his wallet. Then he said that it was his birthday. We made small talk with him but were somewhat guarded with our interaction. David, a self-admitted black sheep of his family, probably just wanted some human contact and we freely shared that with him.

Day 4: OK, Now It’s Getting Hot!

Today we rode 57 miles to Nickerson, KS. It was a windy day. It was a hot day.  And it was a long day!

While the forecast temperature was only supposed to be in the 80’s, I noted over 100 degrees on my bike computer, which registers the heat from the pavement. The locals all said that this heat was unusual for this time of year.

Today wasn’t a picture taking kind of day, but I couldn’t help but capture these very curious cows with white heads:

During the journey as our water was becoming hot and depleted, Matthew and I began knocking on doors of houses along the road to ask for water. 

At the first house, though it was apparent that there was a young man at home, no one came to the door. 

At the second house, a woman named Pam, offered us water and ice.  Pam was more than kind because she responded first to Matthew’s request, then to mine as I pulled up behind Matthew, and finally offered bottled water to Charlie as she and her family were pulling out of their driveway.

Once refreshed, we pushed our way into Nickerson where we set up camp.  That night, we enjoyed bar food at the only place in town. I consumed the recommended double cheeseburger and fries. Promptly at 9 pm, it was evident that the family business was closing so we were politely asked to leave.

Day 5: A Gathering of Adventure Cyclists

Today’s journey consisted of 48 miles to Newton, KS, with cross winds. My legs continued to be strong. Today’s route involved more climbing which didn’t present any special challenge to me.  Matthew is much more adept at climbing since he’s been on the road for five weeks as compared to my five days.

On the way out of Nickerson, we stopped at a diner where I enjoyed fruit and coffee. 

Today’s observation included numerous dead snakes on the road and one very large brown owl sitting on a fence along a tree line.

Our roads had no real shoulders but Kansas driver’s continued to be most considerate. I had to be careful with the impact of pressure waves from trucks going opposite direction.  Those trucks going my way offered a helpful vacuum effect. 

As we passed through the town of Buhler, KS, I noted a red truck with an older gentleman stop across the road and look at us.  He ended up turning around and stopping us in the high school parking lot.  His name is Jim and he used to be a touring cyclist.  It was apparent that seeing us brought back some great memories for him.  He didn’t want to let us go. So we decided to stop in town at Mama Lou’s Cafe where we enjoyed coffee and home-made cinnamon rolls (heated with the recommended butter topping).

After returning to the road, I passed two very majestic horses that seemed excited to see me:

And, as we pulled into Newton, KS, I saw my first TransAmerica sign of this trip:

At the end of today’s trip, I was tired and beginning to feel the effects of multiple days on the road.  But I was confident that I could stay on the road for another couple of days before taking a break.

Charlie reunited with his son, Cole, who he hadn’t seen since last June.  We all enjoyed dinner at Gurty’s Restaurant, where I consumed a salad, Italian hoagie, and fries.  And, upon return to camp, we enjoyed a night of camaraderie and laughter.  Cole entertained us with his rapping.   

Day 6: Camping Under An Unstable Air Mass

Today was the longest ride to date, 75 miles.  Winds were mostly favorable.

My legs were strong through 50 miles and strong enough afterwards. I am actually amazed at the strength and stamina that is evident.  But it was a long day.

After arriving in Eureka, we set up camp at the local park.  It had a swimming pool that was operating but not yet open (it was tempting to climb the fence!).

Matthew and I ventured into town.  We stopped into the local VFW bar and had a nice chat with bartender Phyllis and other patrons, most of whom were veterans. They recommended that we eat at Bennie’s restaurant, where I enjoyed (once again) a salad, burger, and fries. 

Afterwards, I stopped into the convenience store to find out what time they open.  There I was greeted by a retired Navy Chief named Paul.  He noticed my Coast Guard hat and started the conversation with the typical Navy challenge to a Coastie, something about shallow water sailers.  He served for 20 years and was a Master Diver. He said that I was the first Admiral that he ever met. 

After we returned to camp, a retired Navy Senior Chief named David came by to offer us his place to stay since rain was forecasted.  He had heard about me Chief Paul.  We thanked him  for his kindness but said that we planned to stay since our tents were already up.  Our severe weather plan was to duck into the concrete block shower buildings. 

At 1:38 am that night, I awoke to constant lightning flashes.  I emerged from the tent to observe lightning 360 degrees around me.  But I heard no thunder.  I thought that my NOAA radio would sound an alert for severe weather but it didn’t.  Fifteen minutes later, a lightening bolt struck the pool and it started raining hard.  Since there was no real wind associated with the storm, Matthew and I decided to ride it out in our dry tents.  I went back to sleep.