I volunteer with the U.S. Coast Guard Academy Alumni Association and currently serve as chair of the board of directors for the association. In March 2021, I received a text from a fellow alum inviting me to join some of his classmates in a bicycle ride from Alexander HAMilton’s tomb in Manhattan, NY, to HOPley Yeaton’s tomb at the US Coast Guard Academy in New London, CT. As the organizer, he named the ride HAMHOP 2021.

Alexander Hamilton founded the Revenue Cutter Service, a pre-curser to the US Coast Guard.  Hopley Yeaton is revered as the first commissioned officer of the Revenue Cutter Service.

I was inspired by the idea and the passion of my fellow alum, Bob Camillucci.  So I decided to join the group and use the challenge of this ride to fuel my training.

The training was grueling but I pushed through the pain, exhaustion and a few minor sports injuries.  I logged over 500 miles in preparation for the ride.

I planned my logistics so I would take Amtrak with the bike from Union Station in Washington, DC, to the station at Newark Liberty airport and then bike to Staten Island to meet the other riders.  We would bike from Staten Island to New London, Connecticut, over three days.  And then I would return home with the bike via Amtrak. I executed this plan to near perfection.

Day 0: DC to Staten Island, NY

On Tuesday, September 28, 2021, I arrived at Union Station in time for a mid-morning Amtrak departure.  This was the first time that I travelled on Amtrak with a bicycle, which cost an extra $20.

I joined the rush of passengers when the departure gate opened.  I walked the bike with panniers (saddle bags) loaded.  Everything was fine until an Amtrak employee notified cyclists that the elevator to the lower platform was broken.  He said that we would be fine to take our bicycles down the escalator.  With some anxiety, I watched two cyclists in front of me negotiate the maneuver. I followed and found that it wasn’t that bad as long as I held firmly to both the front and rear brake levers while leaning back to maintain my balance.

My next challenge was to find a train car with bicycle racks.  I followed the two cyclists in front of me as they entered one train car.  They informed me that their car probably had racks only for their two bikes.  I scurried towards the back of the train and hoisted the bike onto a relatively vacant car.  I found that I had to remove the panniers so that I could maneuver the bike around the tight turn into the car.  I put the panniers on the train first, placing them on a vacant seat.  Then I got off the train to retrieve the bike. I walked the bike through the length of the train car trying to avoid hitting elbows, knees, and feet of fellow passengers!  Fortunately, there was a vacant bike rack.

When I made the reservation, I was told that a conductor would help me load my bike onto the rack.  Fat chance!  As the train began to leave the station, I studied the various moving bars and grates on rack… it looked like a Rube Goldberg contraption.  In the end, I decided to remove the front wheel and hook the back wheel to the contraption.  The bike swung freely with the motion of the train.  I used a strip of velcro I had to secure the front forks to a vertical grate.  That stabilized the bike and I called it good enough. 

Here’s a picture:

It was only about a 3-hour ride to New Jersey.  Before my stop, I tried to figure out which platform doors would open because very few of them had opened before we departed Union Station. It dawned on me that all doors were opening at the smaller stations.  But I also noticed that the stops at the smaller stations were very short.  So by the time we arrived at Newark Liberty Airport station, I had reassembled my bike and pre-staged my panniers by the closest door. I unloaded the bike and scurried back on the train to retrieve my panniers.  One of the train conductors had stepped on the platform and saw me unload the bike. I waved at him before getting back on the train so he knew to wait for me to get off again before signaling for the train to depart. I thanked him as I got off!

Here’s a picture of me on the loading platform in New Jersey as the train pulls away:

My map planning indicated that I should be able to leave the train platform at my station and proceed right out to the street.  Reality suggested otherwise.  I asked a station attendant for guidance and she advised me to take the AirTrain to the airport.  I hopped on the AirTrain but jumped off at the first stop that appeared to provide street access.  

Once on the street, I checked the weather (it had rained heavily before my arrival) and decided that it was sufficiently clear to bike to Staten Island.  I considered a cab or Uber but was looking forward to a bike ride after sitting on that train.  I followed Google Maps to try to find the start of my planned route to Staten Island.  Using Google Maps on a bike can be adventurous. I took a couple of wrong turns and likely added a mile to the journey.  But I eventually connected with the route and was one my way.

During planning, I decided to add 5 miles to my route, which took me through the port of NY-NJ and minimized the amount of city riding I had to do.  Fortunately, there is a generous bike lane through the port.

The ride to Staten Island was generally pleasant.  I only experienced two minor incidents:

1) While biking through the port, one of my panniers ejected off the bike when I hit a patch of rough pavement.  It was probably caused by me not ensuring that pannier was fully clipped in.  A trucker behind me honked his horn and immediately stopped to prevent other truckers from running over the bag.  I also immediately realized what had happened. I laid my bike on the side of the road and ran back to retrieve the bag.  I smiled at the trucker and thanked him with a thumbs up which he politely acknowledged.

2) After riding through the port and crossing into Staten Island, I encountered a lot of car traffic.  Most drivers were courteous to me.  But one driver decided that he needed to accelerate around me as I approached a corner. The car immediately made a right turn.  I slammed on my brakes and stopped short of hitting the car.  Since this has happened to me a few times before, I chose not to say or do anything to provoke the driver. Patience is a virtue!

Here’s a picture of the new Goethals Bridge that connects Elizabeth City, NJ, to Staten Island.  It’s bike lane is awesome!

Here’s a picture of the NYC skyline from the bridge (note the port):

After biking almost 22 miles, I arrived at my destination.  It was a relatively comfortable ride aside from the stress of biking in unfamiliar surroundings.  I drank a lot of water, got cleaned up, and enjoyed pizza for dinner. 

The HAMHOP 2021 group had planned to meet at hotel at 7 pm for an organizational meeting. I met the 17 other riders and the support crew. The ride organizer called an audible and said that we would shift the ride briefing to a local restaurant.  Although I had eaten, I joined the group to take the opportunity to get to know the team better.

Day 1: Staten Island to Manhattan to Centerport, NY 

The plan of the day called for us to gather at the front of the Navy Lodge and bike together to the St. George Ferry Terminal. We’d take the ferry to Manhattan and then bike to Trinity Church where the tomb of Alexander Hamilton is located.  After a photo op, we’d bike to Centerport, NY, on Long Island.

I woke up early (as always) and felt no ill effects from the previous day’s ride. Breakfast and coffee were provided courtesy of the Navy Lodge.

Although I had packed only about 25 pounds of stuff in my panniers (a fairly light load for a touring bike), I decided to stow them in one of the support vehicles. I carried food, essential bike repair supplies, and other items in my handlebar bag.  I had trained with full panniers so I welcomed the chance to ease my load. And I noted that most of the other cyclists were on much lighter racing bikes as compared to my 35 pound touring bike. There were a few on hybrids, and one brave soul rode a mountain bike.

It was a cool morning so I wore a lightweight cycling jacket.

At about 8 am, a representative from Coast Guard Sector New York arrived to greet us and wish us well.

Here’s a photo of the HAMHOP 2021 team:

Here’s a photo of the ride organizer, Bob Camillucci, and Deputy Sector Commander, Captain Marc Sennick, displaying the latest copy of the Coast Guard Academy Alumni Association Bulletin:

After a final safety briefing, we were ready to go.  Because I was flying the American flag on a fiberglass pole on the back of my bike, I was asked to lead the group out of the Navy Lodge parking lot.  We enjoyed a comfortable ride to the ferry terminal.  It was mostly downhill.

When we arrived at the ferry terminal, we were screened one-by-one by law enforcement dogs and corralled into a waiting area.  When given the signal, we walked our bikes onto the ferry.

Here’s a picture of cyclists on the ferry:

Here’s a picture I took while transiting NY Harbor:

When we arrived in New York, we rendezvoused with a fellow rider who was waiting in the city.  We cycled a mile to Trinity Church through surprisingly light city traffic. As expected, navigating by bike computer or cell phone in the city was a bit sporadic and we took a few wrong turns along the way.

At Trinity Church, our coordinator tried to get us into the cemetery so that we could pay homage to Alexander Hamilton at his gravesite.  It didn’t work so we settled on taking this photo from the street with Hamilton’s tomb in the background:

Our plan was to continue biking through the city in 4-5 person pods.  Because of traffic, that didn’t work out so well and we ended up self-organizing by riding pace.  We encountered lots of traffic, pedestrians walking the wrong way on bike paths, traffic stopped by school buses and throngs of school children, etc.

By this time, I was navigating by bike computer.  When my group’s devices provided conflicting directions, we huddled to make a decision about the best way to go.

We cycled over the Brooklyn Bridge and encountered much less pedestrian traffic than anticipated.  I did note individuals speeding towards us in the opposite direction on e-bikes and small motor bikes.

Conventional wisdom suggests that NYC is relatively flat.  From a cyclist’s perspective, that’s a myth as there were significant hills along this ride which presented a challenge to me and several other riders.  I’d stop on occasion to catch my breath but never got off the bike to walk up the rest of the hill.

I enjoyed the scenes of the city and found the bicycling environment much less threatening than anticipated.

We’d stop on occasion to allow slower riders to catch up.  Here’s one of those stops:

As with most city riding, it’s always a challenge to find restrooms and water. Some riders stopped at Starbucks or McDonalds.  My group discovered a porta-potty and water fountain at Upper Highlands Playground in Brooklyn.

Starting at the middle of the ride, I experienced a series of cramps to my hands, calfs, hamstrings, and leg IT bands.  They were very unexpected and I surmised that they were triggered by the numerous hill climbs.  I was able to ride through most of the cramps but decided that I wouldn’t push myself too hard for the rest of the ride. I didn’t experience another episode of major cramps for the remainder of the trip.

We were fortunate that our support team had arranged pre-planned stops at a church and a park where we could refill our water bottles and grab some snacks.  These were much needed breaks for me.  Our support crew were lifesavers!

After bicycling a total of 57 miles, I was one of two riders who were the last to arrive at the hotel.  My colleague and I encouraged each other for the last 15 miles.  The rest of our team was gathered to celebrate our arrival. While my legs were fatigued, I felt pretty good.

My sister, Joye, and her husband, Mark, live within a few miles of Centerport so I planned to have dinner with them.  My sister arranged takeout from Nicky’s Restaurant. She and Mark brought me a healthy portion of penne pasta with marinara sauce.  We enjoyed a nice reunion at the hotel gazebo.  And I consumed the rest of my delicious pasta for breakfast the next morning.

Day 2: Centerport to Riverhead, NY

I woke up feeling reasonably well.  Today’s ride was roughly a straight line along Long Island. 

I joined the first group out. Once again, we experienced a few discrepancies with our electronic mapping but worked through it. I was able to keep my fellow riders within sight for most of the day. Some of the riders who departed after us passed me, but I was comfortable with my pace.

Again, we had a couple of pre-planned stops, one of which allowed some of our riders to take rehydration to a whole new level:

Most of the day’s ride were on some fabulous bike paths. We were often the only individuals on the path.  And, when we got to about the halfway point, the hills were behind us and we were mostly riding downhill.

We rode a total of 50 miles and I wasn’t one of the last to arrive.  

After getting cleaned up, we walked to a local restaurant, Cucina25, and enjoyed a team dinner.  I ordered chicken parmigiana, which came with spaghetti, salad, and bread.  With an easy day of riding left, the mood was very light-hearted as illustrated by this photo:

Day 3: Riverhead, NY, to New London, CT

After waking up, I was first to arrive at the hotel office as the attendant was making coffee.  I ate the remainder of my chicken parm for breakfast.  I felt really good (day 3 always feels better than day 2).

To commemorate the upcoming end of the ride, I added the Coast Guard flag just below the American flag on the bike.  My fellow riders loved this tribute.

Here’s a picture of the group ready to begin the last day’s ride:

As we rode towards the Orient Point Ferry, a fellow rider named Mike disappeared from my rear view mirror.  I doubled back and found him with a flat tire.  Other riders behind us joined in to help with the fix.  Here’s a classic scene shot showing one worker and numerous supervisors:

Much of today’s ride was through rural settings with wineries and vegetable stands along the way.  And it was mostly flat!

After 34 miles of riding, we all ended up at the ferry in time to ride it together.  We had reserved and pre-paid but were surprised to learn that there was an additional fee to take a bike on the ferry.  A few of my resourceful colleagues loaded their bikes in the support vehicles. I did not and chalked it up as the cost of doing business!

The ferry ride to New London was picture perfect.  Here’s a shot of the Barque EAGLE at the New London City Pier:

When we arrived in New London, we staged everyone in a parking lot and then proceeded to ride together to the Coast Guard Academy, a distance of only 1-1/2 miles.  There was one final hill to deal with right before we arrived at the gate.

As we arrived, there was a small group from the Class of 1986 to greet us and cheer us on.

After individually going through screening at the entrance gate to the Academy, we had one more hill to climb to get to the Academy Chapel, where Hopley Yeaton’s tomb is located.  Bob asked me to lead the pack and I attacked the hill with all the vigor I could muster.

At the site of the tomb, we shared a few words of tribute and thanks, and toasted our Service’s first commissioned officer.  Here’s the group picture:

Since everyone in the group was associated with the Class of 1986, they were on a short timeline to get to their hotel and join their 35th reunion activities.  I thanked Bob for his leadership and exchanged final greetings with my fellow cyclists.

I cycled 1 mile to my hotel.  After getting cleaned up, I walked back to the Academy to observe a few of the reunion events. Thanks to the kindness of friends, I had pre-positioned more appropriate attire at the Alumni Center.  After the reunion events, I walked to G’s restaurant for a hearty meal.  I was later joined by an Academy cadet who had previously reached out to me for advice.  He was gracious enough to give me a ride back to my hotel.

On the following morning, I cycled to Union Station to take Amtrak back to DC.  I stopped by to see EAGLE, reflecting on the 10 weeks I spent aboard her as a cadet:

My return to DC was uneventful.  The highlight was being pleasantly surprised when the Amtrak conductor in New London showed me how to properly stow my bicycle in the rack.  I’m properly trained for the next time.

I appreciated the invitation to join HAMHOP 21 and thank Bob and the Class of ’86 for their friendship and exceptional support. Many of the group pictures in this post were taken by other riders or the dedicated members of our support team.

Health permitting, I plan to continue to push the envelope with bicycle trips.  Stay tuned!

Since my last update in March 2019, I dealt with increasingly debilitating symptoms of Smoldering Multiple Myeloma. In April 2019, I entered a clinical trial at the National Institutes of Health in Bethesda. Over the course of 8 months, I endured 48 chemo treatments.

The good news is that these treatments suppressed the disease and most of the symptoms. The NIH team is truly amazing.  The bad news is that the chemo and steroids took a serious toll on my fitness level. Chemo forced me into being more of a couch-potato.

After tallying a total of 3000 miles on the bike in 2018, I only was able to achieve 500 in 2019 (all before chemo treatments), and 375 in 2020. I spent most of 2020 and 2021 rebuilding my strength and stamina.

As I’ve worked to rebuild muscle, strength and stamina, I’ve accepted that my post-chemo fitness will never be as strong as it was before.  Frankly, the drugs weakened my veins, especially in my arms.  And no amount of effort on my part seems to help to restore them. I’m not complaining because, relative to the way I felt pre-chemo, I feel great today!

I returned the the bicycle in early 2021 and, with sustained effort, have achieved strength and stamina that “good enough.” I felt good enough to sign up for a multi-day ride that I’ll cover in my next post.

March 2019 Update

I temporarily relocated to Neptune Beach, Florida, in early January and have averaged 75-100 miles of bicycling per week along sunny and beautiful beachfront routes. While the routes are very flat, the stiff ocean breezes add to the physical challenge (which I like).

At this stage of my cycling life, 75-100 miles per week sustains my cycling fitness.  Without considering touring adventures and an occasional century ride, this totals to about 4000 miles per year. 

As a relatively new “snowbird,” I appreciate the slower pace of life of the Florida beach community.  And I don’t miss the weather up north at all!

Here are some pictures taken along my route:

My interpretation of this sign: Only use authorized restrooms!

Ponta Vedra Beach in winter is perfect for introverts!

My turn-around stop on Highway A1A: Elroy the gator, about 7-8 feet long, was often submerged up to his eyes laying in waiting for a meal, often cranes. On this day, he was out of the water catching some rays.

This post fulfills my longstanding promise to provide a recap of some of the equipment I used during my 2017-2018 TransAmerica ride.  I’ve categorized the equipment as follows:

• the bike,
• me on the bike,
• resting on the road, and
• resting off the road. 

The Bike

THE RIG: 2017 Kona Sutra: http://2017.konaworld.com/sutra.cfm

• I evaluated all major touring bike options and found that the Kona geometry fit me best.  I love this bike!  I am now a fan of the Brooks B17 saddle.  Disc brakes are my newest must have.  Other than a few broken spokes (I was glad that the wheels have 36 spokes-my broken spokes were never disabling), the bike performed magnificently.
• I made 3 modifications:
  • Changed tires to Schwalbe Marathon Mondial Tires 700 x 35: extremely durable; had only 2 flats and both were caused by metal shards. Look for sales on-line.
  • Installed a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Tubus Tara Front Rack.
  • Installed Deore XT PD-T8000 Pedals (found them on sale for $75 on Amazon).

BIKE BAGS (PANNIERS): Ortlieb Front and Back Sport-Roller Classic Panniers: Ortlieb is as good as most say as to being rugged, waterproof, and functional! Yellow was the right color for me. I also added a Ortlieb Ultimate 6 Classic-M Handlebar Bag; I took it off the bike whenever I needed to leave the bike unattended. Look for sales on-line… I didn’t pay full price!

SAFETY EQUIPMENT:

• SAFETY FLAG: Since the early 1980’s, I’ve found that putting an American flag patch on the back of my backpack while bicycling tends to encourage good behavior from passing motorists.  I searched for a way to apply this concept during the TransAmerica journey where I didn’t intend to wear a backpack.  I found a company, Aditude, that makes a 6 ft lightweight fiberglass whip pole that easily mounts to the bike rack using velcro tabs.  The pole supports various flags and safety pennants.  I chose to fly a 12 inch by 18 inch American flag. For the TransAmerica journey, in addition to making a patriotic statement, this provided added visibility in the mountain passes.  This is now standard equipment on my touring and hybrid bikes.
• MIRROR: D&D Oberlauda Ultralight Bike Mirror: a critical piece of safety gear, especially for anticipating approaching trucks.
• SATELLITE TRACKER: Given the frequent absence of cell coverage along the TransAmerica route, I searched for a way for loved ones to track me.  I chose the GPS Spot Gen3. In addition to tracking and pre-programmed texts, it has a panic button that alerts local law enforcement that you’ve experienced a serious problem. As a solo touring cyclist, I considered the tracker necessary for peace of mind.
• LIGHTS: I used my old reliable Planet Bike front and rear lights.  I used the front light only once during a night ride.  I often used the rear blinking Superflash in the rain and fog.
• BELL: Mirrycle Incredibell Original Bicycle Bell. Great for alerting pedestrians, other cyclists, and animals (especially deer and squirrels) as you approach.
• WEATHER RADIO: I carried a very small NOAA weather radio, the MIDLAND weather alert radio. I kept it in the alert mode.  It alerted several times during the trip giving me warnings about oncoming severe weather.
• Membership in Better World Club: They’re the AAA for bicyclists. Fortunately, I never used them but I did think about calling after my crash in Kansas.

Me on The Bike

• SHOES: This took a lot of research as I wanted a rugged shoe that supported an inset SPD clip. I chose mountain biking shoes: Five Ten Men’s Kestrel Lace Mountain Bike Shoes (Clipless). They were comfortable, rugged, and dry.  For the TransAmerica, they performed superbly as my all-purpose shoe.  The only other shoes that I carried were flip flops.
• SOCKS: I prefer Darn Tough Vermont Men’s 1/4 Merino Wool Sock Light Cushion Athletic Socks and their longer crew socks.
• HELMET: I used a Giro Revel with visor.  Pick what you like but wear a helmet!
• GOGGLES with PRESCRIPTION INSERTS: I require vision correction to see clearly; pretty important on a bike!  Wearing contacts is not advisable while bicycle touring (it’s a dirty and dusty life!).  So I decided to go with this option after looking at prescription googles costing a few hundred dollars.  Through my research, I found a company named 5.11, which at the time sold tactical RAID goggles that could accommodate prescription inserts.  The total setup, including prescription lenses from America’s Best, cost me $180.  This continues to be a fabulous setup for me.  Unfortunately, 5.11 no longer sells these goggles. So, if you desire a similar set up, check out military and law enforcement tactical supply companies such as Revisionmilitary.com (for example, their Stingerhawk spectacles can accommodate an Rx carrier (look under accessories).
• BIKE COMPUTER & SENSORS: In the past, I’ve not advanced beyond a hard-wired CATEYE device. So, I really got out of my comfort zone when I decided to get a GARMIN Edge 820.  Matched with Garmin Speed and Cadence Sensors, it ended up being the perfect choice for me.  I had map connectivity for the entire journey.  I used the slope metrics to plow through the mountains.  And the computer did a terrific job of keeping daily, weekly, and total trip metrics.  I only triggered the automatic crash alert once, but am glad that I had it in the event that I was rendered unconscious.
• HEART RATE MONITOR: Scosche RHYTHM+ HR Monitor Armband. Again, the perfect choice for me!
• PADDED SHORTS: I tried a few but found that the Performance GEL III shorts worked best for me. I purchased them during sales at Performance Bike (online and in the stores).
• OUTER SHELL/RAIN JACKET/RAIN PROTECTION: I opted for the Performance Hooded Jacket.  It kept me dry in driving rain.  It kept me warm as an outer layer in 30+ degree F weather.  It dried quickly and was easy to wash. I also carried Performance Borough Rain Pants, which I occasionally used, and an old pair of neoprene shoe covers, which I used once in an especially drenching rainstorm.  I frequently used rain covers for my helmet and Brooks saddle.
• WATER BOTTLES: I carried three bottles on my bike. Two were Zefal 33 oz (available at Amazon) in the stock bottle holders. I also carried a 24 oz bottle using a SKS-Germany 11313 Anywhere Bicycle Attachment Water Bottle Mount that I installed below the down tube close to the crank.
  

Resting On the Road

• TENT: After a lot of research, I decided that the Eureka Amari Pass Solo Tent was an appropriate balance between cost and weight.  It was the ideal size for me, and allowed me to store my panniers in the vestibule. It performed superbly in all weather conditions, and, more importantly, kept the mosquitos and rain out.  A rain cover is a must!  I found it for $90 on Amazon but note that this particular model has been discontinued.
  
• SLEEPING BAG/AIR PAD: I chose a Slumberjack Sojourn 40 Sleeping Bag and Klymit Inertia O Zone Air Pad, again balancing cost against weight and size.  Both served me well in a variety of conditions and were easy to maintain. Their are lots of lighter options available if you are willing to pay for them.
  
• HEADLAMP: Black Diamond Unisex Spot Light. A headlamp with a red light is a must while camping so you don’t get blinded before you go out to look at the stars.
• BIKE LOCK: NRS Vigilante Cable Lock: Long enough to lock the wheels, frame, and seat. At campsites, I generally locked my bike to a tree or picnic table.
• COOKING STOVE: MSR PocketRocket. A great value!
• WATER FILTER: Sawyer Products SP103 Mini Water Filtration System. I used it more than I thought I would.
• RECHARGING ELECTRONICS:
  
  • ANKER POWERCORE+ 10050: Worth it’s weight in gold!  Was able to charge my phone, bike computer, and heart rate monitor through multiple days of “no electric available” cycling.
  • ANKER 40W/8A 5-port USB Charger: Used it a lot at those campsites that only had one outlet in the restroom.
• INSECT REPELLENT: REPEL with Deet was the most effective against mosquitos.

Resting Off the Road

• LAPTOP: I’m not savvy enough to maintain a blog without a laptop. So, I decided to carry my old 4 pound Macbook Air.  I’m glad I did so that I could maintain connectivity during the one day per week when I stayed in motels.
  
• BIKE MAINTENANCE GEAR: I only want to highlight a few of specialized items that I carried:
  
  • Finish Line Grunge Brush: This was the most used bike maintenance tool during the trip, even more so than a bike pump. A clean drivetrain is a happy drivetrain!  I used the brush and a Dawn/water solution every other day, and performed a deep clean of the bike every week.
  • MINI PUMP: Over the years, I’ve accumulated a collection of mini-pumps but found that the  Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HP ABS Pump performed the best during my TransAmerica experience.  I ran with tire pressures between 80 and 100 psi.  If your tubes have removable valve cores (sometimes you don’t know until the core pops out while unscrewing the pump head), make sure you also have a valve core remover (to tighten them).  You can try to get one for free by asking at you local bike shop.
  • CASSETTE TOOL: I decided to carry a Stern Mini Cassette Lockring Driver on the chance that I needed to remove the cassette. I ended up using the tool twice during spoke replacement.  I now consider this device a must have!  I didn’t try it beforehand because of concerns about breaking something; I did ensure that it would fit my bike.  The instructions are pretty straightforward and using the tool isn’t as dramatic as the instructions might seem. 

My next blog entry will tally my deep appreciation to the many folks who provided assistance to me during my 2017-8 TransAmerica journey.  And I hope to forecast my next adventure as well.

Day 33: Christianburg to Buchanan, VA

Today’s distance goal was influenced by our desire to get as close to Natural Bridge as we could and still have suitable camping opportunities.  That translated to a ride of 65 miles.

I enjoyed a pleasant start to the ride, mostly downhill.  After 11 miles, I unexpectedly caught up with Matthew. Blocking our route was a road barrier, flashing lights, and a sign saying that there was an all-day bridge closure on the road at Mill Creek.

Without expressly saying it to each other, Matthew and I realized that the only detour involved significant climbing.  We had already planned for a relatively challenging ride.  Perhaps the construction crew would let us pass through? Or perhaps we could cross the creek with our bicycles?

A construction crew riding a large truck came towards us from the direction of the closed bridge. One of the workers clearly stated that neither the bridge nor the creek were passable, even by bicyclists.

Matthew and I exchanged one of those “it is what it is” glances.  Because we didn’t have cell coverage, we relied on the Adventure Cycling Map to generally plot our detour, even though the non-route information is less specific. After getting conflicting information from a passing motorist, we guessed on one particular turn hoping that the road wasn’t a dead end. Our guess was correct and we ended up reconnecting with the route using a gravel road with very steep downhill portions.

Once we returned to the planned route, the ride became pleasant again as the terrain followed the course of rivers and streams or adjacent railroad tracks.

Here’s a couple of pictures of the terrain. The second one shows that hills that we had to climb up to detour around the closed bridge:

Because of the detour, Matthew and I rode together more than usual today.  We came across this horse, who seemed a bit skittish upon our arrival.  Matthew produced an apple and proceeded to become the horse’s best friend. The Bristol Biker is a horse whisperer as well!

Within 10 miles of Buchanan, I ran across another bridge closing. Matthew was well ahead of me by now and he alerted me that the construction crew had allowed him to walk his bike across the partially completed new bridge.  I followed suite with an expression of deep appreciation for the workers.

Here’s a shot of the bridge after I crossed it (the main concrete beams were in place but there were large gaps since the decking had not been installed):

We ended up riding 78 miles.  With the rest day, my legs handled the unexpected challenge with relative ease.

Matthew arrived in Buchanan before I did. On the advice of a local resident, Matthew suggested that we camp at the Fairgrounds.  It was a beautiful site situated on the bank of the James River. We had access to water and power.

Here are pictures of the James River and adjacent fairgrounds:

We enjoyed dinner at Burger King (the only open restaurant in town). In anticipation of another challenging day tomorrow, we also stocked up on snacks at the adjacent gas station shop.

During the night, we discovered that the beautiful site had a few serious downfalls.  Across the river (hidden in the trees) was a railroad line. Throughout the night, the echoes of passing trains and train horns were a distraction. The trains came every 3-4 hours like clockwork.

And there was a tower bell that rung every hour on the hour. 

The locals likely were used to these distractions. But for two exhausted cyclists, they contributed to a restless night! At the first train horn of the night, which was very amplified by the characteristics of the river basin, I heard Matthew exclaim, “Bloody Hell.” It sounded like we were sleeping right next to the tracks.  I was too exhausted to care and somehow managed to get enough sleep to attack the next day’s challenge.

Day 34: Buchanan to Love, VA

During the previous evening, Matthew and I confirmed our intention to make a detour to visit Natural Bridge.  We also make the joint decision to tackle Mount Vesuvius, known as the most challenging climb in the entire TransAmerica Trail.

We enjoyed a marvelous ride to Natural Bridge.  I had visited the site several times as a child and once with my wife and sons.  Once surveyed by George Washington and owned by Thomas Jefferson, it’s one of the most iconic natural sites in Virginia. Thomas Jefferson described it as, “The most sublime of Nature’s works.”

Here’s an unspoiled and spoiled shot (the latter courtesy of Matthew Moran):

Please note that I am not wearing my typical biking garb. Because of the upcoming climb, and the fact that it was a hot day, I settled on a tee-shirt and padded biking shorts.  It was a wise decision!

After a lengthy visit to Natural Bridge, Matthew and I proceeded to the town of Vesuvius along a moderate incline. We passed though the town of Lexington, VA, another very picturesque location with lots of history and interesting shops (for a future visit, perhaps).

Here’s a picture of what I began to approach: Vesuvius is off to the right:

As I approached Vesuvius, I planned to stop at a local store to replenish my water before starting the steep climb. I interpreted the map to mean that I would be biking through the town. But, I quickly found that I was approaching the base of Mount Vesuvius.

Imagine my anxiety in not having sufficient water to support me climbing up the most challenging slope in 4,200 miles! As I pondered turning back to find the town (which Matthew later told me required a deviation from the route), I saw a snow cone stand in the yard of a private citizen.  I counted my blessings as I rode up to the stand and rested my bike against a tree. 

A man emerged from the adjacent house and opened up the stand just for me.  His name was Jimmy. He was from New Orleans and was a Marine Corps veteran. 

I enjoyed a large and very delicious New Orleans shaved ice with cherry syrup as Jimmy and I talked.  He sat me in a very comfortable chair in back of the stand. After half an hour or so, Jimmy filled my water bottles with cool water and shared words of encouragement as I started up the mountain. 

Having previously analyzed the specifics of this particular challenge, I knew how many thousands of feet I needed to climb to conquer the mountain.  I broke the challenge into executable segments, wherein I sprinted up the extreme slopes until my heart was pounding or I was out of breath (these were often concurrent experiences). I would stop to catch my breath and let my heartbeat settle, and then repeat. Even though some of the slopes appeared impossible, I never once considered walking the bike. I did stop and wave by the very few cars that passed. And fortunately, most of the climb was shaded by the forest so I never became overheated.

Before I knew it (after almost two hours of climbing), I could see the sunshine breaking through near the top of the summit. I had conquered the biggest challenge of this half of the journey. Here was the sign that signaled the end of this specific ordeal:

When I got to the Blue Ridge Parkway, I caught up with Matthew as we marveled at the vistas (these pictures don’t adequately capture the views):

When we arrived in Love, VA, we initially began setting up camp at a local church, hoping someone would come by so that we could verify our intentions. We were attracted to the site because it didn’t require a substantial detour from the route.

A man named Keith came by to inform us that the church discouraged camping, but that he owned the adjacent resort and we could camp there for a fee. After some discussion, and in consideration (mainly by me) that the church contained a cemetery on the property, we decided to take Keith up on his offer.  He’s the owner of Royal Oaks Resort in Love, VA. 

The site included access to a shower and restroom (in one of his cabins), water, power, a fire pit, and even WiFi.  Keith sweetened his offer by saying that he would open up his deli so that we could order sandwiches for dinner.

Matthew and I set up camp in Keith’s more suitable location. We enjoyed some delicious Italian subs. And even made a fire from wood we collected from around the site.

There were no trains and no church bells. That night, exhausted by the climb up Mount Vesuvius and surrounded by peace and quiet, I enjoyed the most restful night of sleep during this half of the trip.  For the most part, it would be all downhill from here!

Day 35: Love to Palmyra, VA

Matthew and I agreed that we could sleep in today since Mount Vesuvius was behind us and since there were no serious climbs left. We enjoyed camp coffee and made another fire to ward off the morning gnats.  For breakfast, I enjoyed (ok, I tolerated) my last freeze-dried meal of the trip.

After securing camp, we bicycled 62 miles to Palmyra. 

The trip included more phenomenal vistas from the Blue Ridge Parkway:

We stopped in Charlottesville for lunch near the University of Virginia campus.  Along the way, we passed vineyards previously owned by George Washington and James Monroe.

We also biked through Nelson County, VA, where some of my ancestors on my father’s side lived as farmers.  As a child during a few summers, my parents sent me to live with my great Aunt Gertrude, on her farm in Nelson County just a stone’s throw away from the Blue Ridge Parkway. These times provided great adventures for me and my dog, Bernie.  I fondly recall a few of our family reunions during earlier days at that farm with Aunt Gertie and Uncle Sam. This sign triggered recall of some of those fond memories:

As I got closer to Palmyra, I called Cindy from the Palmyra United Methodist Church to arrange to stay at the church.  She referred me to Pastor George, who met us when we arrived at the church. 

Pastor George rolled out the red carpet for us, allowing us to stay in their classroom facility.  We enjoyed kitchen access, including a Keurig coffee maker.  At the Pastor’s suggestion, we hurried off to the grocery store deli before they closed to order dinner. I appreciate Pastor George, Cindy, and the PUMC family for their exceptional kindness.  Here’s a picture of me rolling the bike into the classroom complex:

I enjoyed another very restful night, particularly since I felt more fatigued today likely due to a delayed reaction from the Mount Vesuvius climb.

Day 36: Palmyra to Ashland, VA

Today’s goal was 74 miles since Matthew and I decided to try to hit the remaining distance between Palmyra and Yorktown hard so that we didn’t have significant distances remaining our last two days.  A forecast of thunderstorms over the coming weekend entered into our planning.

“it’s all downhill from here” wasn’t quite the right mindset for the final days of the trip. Matthew and I were surprised by some of the hills and a few extreme slopes we encountered. But my legs remained strong and I found myself powering up the hills with relative ease as compared to earlier in this 1/2 of the journey.

As we approached Lake Anna, I surmised that Matthew would stop for a swim given his penchant to jump into lakes and rivers.  Sure enough, he paused for a dip.  I pressed on. Matthew later informed me that the water was unusually warm, as we later found out that the north end of the lake is the “hot” side of cooling water used by the adjacent nuclear power plant.

On my way to Ashland, I also passed the Scotchtown Patrick Henry Home National Historic Landmark.

For once, I beat Matthew to our destination. We planned on primitive camping (no services) behind Olde Town Cycles in Ashland, VA.  I arrived at the shop an hour before closing and was offered a hot shower and power by the owner, Dan.  

When Matthew arrived, we set up camp behind the store.  We ate at a local sports bar and enjoyed a relatively quiet evening, save a few passing trains and the croaking of bullfrogs from a nearby creek.

Day 37: Ashland to Chickahominy Riverfront Park in Williamsburg, VA

Today’s goal was about 50 miles to Charles City, VA, but we ended up biking 68 miles to locate camping facilities.

After biking through Mechanicsville, we ended up on the Virginia Capital Trail.  This is a most bike friendly trail shared by hikers and bikers.  When we arrived at Charles City, we missed the fact that their boat ramp permits camping by cyclists.  So we decided to extend the journey to Chickahominy Riverfront Park.  This is a fee-based county facility that includes hot showers and a pool.

Once we arrived and set up camp, Matthew decided to bike the estimated 5 miles to the local store.  The journey was more distant than described by the car-loving locals but he returned with a good bottle of wine, Italian subs, and jalapeno potato chips as our last meal together. 

We built a fire and enjoyed a very quiet evening.  I appreciate Matthew for his friendship, expertise, and encouraging support.  We’ve built a very special relationship over the past five weeks that promises to extend well beyond this endeavor.

As I approached my tent for the evening, I noticed a large water turtle laying eggs within yards of my tent.  Earlier that evening, we noticed another large turtle crossing through our campsite.  Matthew and I chose to leave this creature alone but we wondered whether we had put our tents over a turtle nest.

Day 38 and Final: Williamsburg to Yorktown, VA

Matthew and I decided that we could take our time this morning since our final destination for the TransAmerica Trail was only 31 miles away. While it rained a bit overnight, we awoke to relatively dry camping gear.

On the previous evening after I turned in, Matthew had befriended a family camping in an adjacent lot with a camper.  This morning, Susan came over and offered to cook breakfast for us.  We accepted her and her family’s gracious offer.  We enjoyed a family breakfast with Mike, Susan, and their daughter, Chris. I appreciate them for their generosity, and for punctuating the kindness that I’ve experienced from great Americans throughout this journey.

At about 10 am, we headed out to Yorktown. Matthew was gracious enough to allow me to keep up with him on this trip so that we could finish together.  At Jamestown, VA, we transferred to the Colonial Parkway. We took time to stop at the many historical markers along the way. 

At the end of the parkway, we experienced a moment of confusion with the map directions.  We checked GoogleMaps, which indicated (wrongly so) that the Yorktown Victory Monument was just over a mile away straight ahead.

We headed up the hill where, when I cleared the crest, I became jubilant upon seeing my family just a short distance away.  Matthew and I were greeted by the warm embrace of my wife and three sons, and our dear and longstanding friends, Joe and Heather, who drove an hour to join the celebration.

Here’s a few of the celebratory pictures:

 The final thrust for home!

 Me & Bristol Biker in Celebratory Hoist!

 Me, Joe, Heather, and Daisy Mae

  The Brown’s and the Bristol Biker

We enjoyed a celebratory lunch with Joe and Heather and dinner with Matthew Moran.  Matthew chose the dinner location at the Yorktown Pub.  This historic location is steeped in history and includes many Coast Guard artifacts on display.

This mission is complete!  In future posts, I’ll express some words of appreciation, offer a few reflections from the trip, and publish the long-overdue list of critical equipment.  Meanwhile, I plan to rest and begin to work on the next bucket list item: to vastly improve my golf game!

Thanks for sharing this very special journey with me.  You interest, support, and prayers mattered!

Days 26: Berea, KY, to Booneville, VIRGINIA

Today’s ride of 50 miles began with a long climb of about 5 miles to Bighill (a town appropriately named).

As with much of the week, the day began with clouds, mist, and a bit of drizzle:

As the day wore on (and we either climbed or descended) the weather improved:

Near the top of “Big Hill,” I experienced my first flat tire of this 1/2 of the journey:

After fixing the flat tire (a small rock or other debris in the median had caused a minor puncture in the tire and tube), I entered this appropriately named county:

The scenery was awesome along the way:

When Matthew and I arrived in Booneville, KY, we set up camp behind the First Presbyterian Church.  This was yet another small town church that made special accommodations for bicyclists.

We enjoyed a fine dinner prepared from supplies purchased at The Dollar Store (in many small towns, TDS included groceries). Dinner consisted of ham and cheese sandwiches and oranges.

Since the impacts of Subtropical Storm Alberto had lingered over the area, it had rained almost every night.  On this night, we guessed that it wouldn’t rain: 

It was a very hot night and we went to sleep sweating in our tents.  Near dawn, it did begin to rain and I moved my tent under the shelter.

Days 27: Booneville to Hindman, VA

Today’s journey was 54 miles and included progressively higher climbs as we entered the Appalachian Mountains.

Along the way, I met a family of five riding two bicycles (a tandem and a tandem with 3rd rider extension).  The kids ranged from about 4 to teenager.  As I was descending a steep slope, they were climbing it (by walking their bicycles; mom’s tandem had a trailer loaded down with gear).  I spoke with Mom and Dad and they were excited about the great adventure.  The younger kids, based on their expressions, weren’t so enthused.  I’m confident that their adventure will go down in the annuls of that family’s lore.

During a McDonald’s stop (waiting out yet another rainstorm), Matthew and I were greeted by two young male bicyclists who were very attentive to the lessons we shared.  Their eagerness and enthusiasm were infectious.

During the middle portion of the journey, I broke a spoke on the rear wheel.  I wasn’t too concerned given my previous experience and simply pushed on.

I didn’t take too many pictures today because it was a long one.  I was very patient with the climbs, stopping as necessary to catch my breath or simply cool off.

During this trip, I’ve encountered many horses along the way.  This one seemed especially excited about potential human interaction so I stopped to have a chat with it:

When I arrived in Hindman, Matthew was already settled at the Hindman Student Ministries. We had been referred there by Hindman Baptist Church since their hostel was not available on that day.  We were greeted by Seth and the Youth Minister, Steve.  They provided everything a cyclist could want (shower, kitchen, power, and coffee).

There was a youth program in progress that provided musical entertainment for us that evening.  I also met the father of some of the participating youth (he had five kids). He asked me about the Coast Guard Academy.

After replacing the spoke, I enjoyed a pizza from Paradise Pizza across the street (the only restaurant in town).

Matthew and I chose a couple of the couches to sleep on.  I later figured out that mine was a futon (lucky me!).

Days 28: Hindman to Elkhorn City, VA

Today was a 63-mile day, again with increasingly higher and more challenging climbs (four of them to be exact but who’s counting!).  

Early in the journey, Matthew and I ran across an ice cream shop. I enjoyed a most refreshing cone of black cherry soft serve ice cream.  Because of the climbs, we became accustomed to taking more breaks.

We often biked through long stretches of farmland or forest with no easy access to shelter.  We were blessed to be at the right place at the right time when it was apparent that severe weather was about to strike.  On the previous day, I arrived at a BP station in a little town called Hazard, KY, just moments before a severe wind and rain storm. 

Today, I saw this church, Glory Bound Freewill Baptist Church, looked up to the heavens, and decided that this would be a good rain stop:

Moments later, the wind kicked up and the rain came thundering down. This church provided an additional blessing (see the water spigot on the wall between the column and my bike), as I was running low on drinking water.

Here’s the vista from one of those climbs:

When I arrived in Elkhorn City, I was greeted by the symbol of the town:

Matthew was already there at a local church talking to a man named Terry, a coal entrepreneur (started his first business at the age of 21). He said that the church had no facilities. But, he called over a friend who called the mayor and secured permission for us to stay at city hall.

The mayor said that the door would be open and we could use the facility after the conclusion of a fitness class that ended at 7:10 pm.  We enjoyed dinner at Subway, and sure enough, walked into city hall and enjoyed a great stay there.  

Here’s yet another example of the incredible kindness of people like Mayor Mike Taylor.  Amazing!

We decided to stay in Elkhorn City instead of camping at The Breaks Interstate Park because of the certain threat of rain.  Once in city hall, the rain began and continued for most of the night.  Matthew and I once again counted our blessings!

Days 29: Elkhorn City to Rosedale, VA

Today’s short (49-mile) ride started with a climb to The Breaks Interstate Park with its stunning vistas:

As I climbed the next hill, lo’ and behold, I saw the last state welcome sign of the journey:

This was a high-five moment for Matthew and me. While this is a remarkable trip, we dearly miss our families.

Most of the early portion of the trip was rainy and drizzly. Since we were in the mountains, we energized our rear lights so passing motorists could see us.  

Along the way, I stopped at a diner for a cheeseburger and potato slices.  It was the only food joint for miles and it had only been open three weeks.  The place was packed with people!

I stopped at another church for a rain delay (heavy rain).

When I arrived in Rosedale, I was greeted by this sign marking a 20-year old hostel hosted by the Elk Garden United Methodist Church:

We stayed in the church hall at the back of the sanctuary.  There was a gazebo with picnic tables for our bikes, a full kitchen (with food and snacks), and a shower.  This is yet another great place for weary bicyclists to stop! And one more church to which I must send a thank you letter.

I took the opportunity to perform some maintenance on the bike, including adjusting the rear brakes that had gotten so much use riding down steep slopes and through hairpin turns. I should note that the last hill I climbed today was in conjunction with a summit called Big A Mountain.  How appropriate!

Days 30: Rosedale to Troutdale, VA

Today’s goal was to ride the 62 miles to Troutdale.  

The first third of the ride was pleasant as we followed a stream (uphill of course):

During the second third, Matthew convinced me to take a detour called the Virginia Creeper Trail. 

There were many bicyclists and hikers on the trail and it was nice to have the more frequent human interaction.  And it was a beautiful ride with many bridges across rivers and streams.  But I still don’t like gravel because the vibrations tend to increase numbness in my hands and arms.  I persevered through this portion.

Matthew and I enjoyed lunch at the Damascus Diner. 

Damascus struck me as similar to the towns in Northern Virginia.  As compared to earlier in this trip, there are more SUVs than pick up trucks.  Farmers and ranchers have been replaced by predominately city folk.  More cars pass us with their music blasting.  Homes now have security system signs prominently displayed.  Things seem drastically different as we get closer to the East Coast.

During the third third of the ride, there weren’t any good water stops and I found myself going into my reserve water for the first time this year.  It wasn’t overly hot but the increasing pace of climbing requires greater water consumption.

I continued to enjoy the aroma of honeysuckle and stopped to take in the scent of this massive hedge:

After Damascus, the landscape returned to farmland:

When I got to Troutdale and took the programmed left turn.  I saw a church on my right but thought that the town would be after the programmed turn (using Adventure Cycling Association maps).  I climbed another mile-long hill and decided that I had been misled by the map. I didn’t have cell service so I couldn’t check Google Maps. So I flagged down a passing motorist who verified that I needed to turn back. I hate wrong turns; especially when they involving steep climbs!

I zoomed down one hill only to have to climb another hill to get to that church.  At the top, I found Matthew and an Appalachian Trail hiker named Joe from Pennsylvania (he retired from the Postal Service after 40 years). 

They had taken up residence in a beautiful hostel facility provided by Troutdale Baptist Church. I appreciated the special touches provided at this hostel: towels for the shower, coffee in the cabins, pillows and pillow cases, and an actual clothes line with clothes pins.

We enjoyed an evening of camaraderie. I learned a lot from Joe about the nuances of Appalachian hiking (probably not something that I plan to add to the bucket list though!).

Days 31 & 32: Troutdale to Christianburg, VA (Are we there yet?)

Today, Matthew and I decided to go for it.  We agreed that if we could get to Christianburg, then we could take a day off. 

The trip ended up being over 92 miles long. And, more significantly, it encompassed a seemingly never ending series of mini-climbs that totaled over a mile of elevation gain. (Said another way, the effort it takes to climb 100 52-feet high steep hills is essentially  the same that it takes to climb one mile-long hill).

For me, this was the longest day of this half of the TransAmerica Trail (I was on the bike for 10 hours). 

I enjoyed some great downhill rides early in the day. Again, our day started with clouds and the threat of rain.  But my first descent brought us sunshine.

For a time, I paralleled I-81. And then I swung north to Radford, VA.  The route took me through Wildwood Park where a local photographer stopped me and took my picture.

Since I was riding for most of the day, I didn’t take a lot of photographs.  Here’s a couple of scenery shots:

When I arrived in Christianburg, a fairly large town, I called Matthew and discovered that our hotel was another 3.9 miles south of town.  He was there to greet me when I peeled myself off the bike.

We enjoyed a most delicious meal of meatloaf at Cracker Barrel.  

I spent the day off resting my aching muscles, updating this blog, and performing a deep cleaning of the bicycle.

For dinner on our rest day, we ate all-you-can-eat popcorn shrimp at Fatback Soul Shack. The meal included unlimited sides and I enjoyed collard greens, green fried tomatoes, chili, and sweet potato casserole.

This meal will fortify me for tomorrow when it’s back on the road to Yorktown, VA!

Days 18: Murphysboro to Eddyville, IL

Today’s ride was 66 miles.  We enjoyed an overcast and relatively cool day, with a few short spurts of rain and drizzle.

Early in the ride, we passed a couple of large lakes.  As I approached the first one, I noticed a bobcat in an open field.  Once it detected me, it took about three large leaps into the trees.

As I approached the lake, I saw two older gentlemen fishing in a boat near the shore.  It was a very placid scene and I didn’t stop to take a picture because the fishermen were so close to the road.  I waved at the men and of the gentlemen shouted, “It’s a good day to be alive!”  I couldn’t agree more!

Later, I noted two swans gliding along Little Grassy Lake. 

Matthew took this picture of me when we stopped to admire the scenery:

The first third of the ride was very serene and pleasant.  During the second third, I was surprised by a number of Ozark-like climbs.  Even though the temperatures were in the 60’s, I found myself sweating profusely as I gutted out these steep climbs.

The last third of the ride was a bit more forgiving.  This day was pretty characteristic of the bicycling “environment” in Kentucky.  The pain of climbing is balanced by the pleasure of the scenery and kind people.

When we arrived in Eddyville, we stopped at the only convenience store in town for a cold drink.  The owner, named Nancy, also sold antiques.  Matthew and I enjoyed a snack there, came back for pizza (many of the convenience stores sell Hunt Pizza), and returned the next morning for coffee. 

Nancy advised us on the best camping opportunities.  We decided to climb the hill and stay at Hayes Canyon Campground and Cabins, a horse camp ground run by Ben and Patti.  When we arrived at the office, we were greeted by their three kids who each presented us with pieces of fruit.

We were allowed to stay in the Cowboy Church for free.  The inspiring hospitality included a dry and cool place to sleep, hot showers, and laundry machines.

During the evening, we met a family from Wisconsin. They gave us a tour of their combo camper (1/2 for people and 1/2 for horses) and introduced us to their two horses.  They shared a cold beverage with us as well.

We met a number of horse people that night and came to a deeper appreciation their special passion for horses.

Days 19: Eddyville, IL, to Marion, KY

Today’s ride was 44 miles. It included a ferry ride across the Ohio River, and crossing into Kentucky.

We left early and were amazed at the “clouds” of gnats that hovered over the fields.  There were millions of gnats in each cloud cluster.  I first thought that it was fog mist.

We encountered a few loose dogs along the way (dog encounters have been generally increasing since Illinois).  Kentucky is known for dogs coming after cyclists. Thus far, I’ve had dogs attempt to “attack” my panniers (side bags), dogs run in front of me (with intent to intercept me), and dogs run and bark on each side of me. If I can get up to 20 miles per hour, I can outrun most of them. But I’ve found the best strategy is to simply maintain speed, look the dogs in the eye, and shout short commands like, “Back off.”

Since Matthew is generally riding ahead of me, he either fires the dogs up before I get there, or tuckers them out. We’ve observed very different reactions from the same groups of dogs.  I carry the same mace that postal workers carry, and keep it at the ready on my handlebars.  The top of the can is red and I surmise that the dogs stay clear when they see the can. I haven’t used the mace to date, and plan to deploy it only as a last resort. Most of the dogs are just doing what dogs do… chase things!

When we arrived at the town of Cave in Rock, we took a ferry across the Ohio River.

Here’s a picture of the line of cars waiting for the ferry, and me on with Illinois to my back.

Here are pictures of me with Kentucky at my back, and at the welcome sign:

When we arrived in Marion, KY, we decided to check out the Marion Methodist Church, which offers their school as a place for cyclists to stay.  I called Pastor David and was connected with Mr. Donnie, a neighbor who gave us access to the church facility.

The only fee for their hospitality is that we fill out a log entry in their guest log, which we were happy to do.  They even took our pictures and attached them to our entry.  Their logs go all the way back to the beginning of the TransAmerica Trail in 1976.

We enjoyed dinner at Anna Mae’s Restaurant, known for their southern cooking.  I enjoyed their meatloaf, okra, and cornbread. 

After dinner, we met Pastor David and his wife and were able to thank them directly for their kindness.

Days 20: Marion to Utica, KY

Today’s ride was 69 miles. The scenery reflected the genteel spirit of Kentucky. I recall the hedges of honeysuckle that border many of the roads, providing a most pleasant scent as I biked along.

Speaking of scent, I’ve become accustomed to near daily allergy effects, from an itchy throat, to an occasional cough (often while climbing), to watery eyes.  Between the oak pollen, cotton wood pollen snowing from the trees, and other allergic triggers, I’ve accepted it all as part of the deal.  While biking, I’m pumping so much liquid through my body that the allergic impacts are minimized.  My eyes don’t generally become bloodshot until after I’m done with the day’s ride. 

We’ve seen an increase in the number of TransAmerica Trail cyclists we encounter going West.  Thus far, no one has passed us heading East.  Today, we met two Dutchmen. We’ve also crossed paths with many Americans and cyclists from Belgium, Germany, and Australia. Many are also blogging along the way.  Several make it a habit of taking pictures of other TransAm’rs they meet along the way. I’m often curious about where my picture will end up given some of the other characters we’ve met!

I note the consistently courteous way that Kentucky drivers treat us.  Since we are often biking through windy roads or upslopes, motorists have been extremely patient and given us the room we need to make it up the hill or pull off the road (in the few places where we can).

When we arrived in Utica, we went to the Utica Fire House. The side door is often kept open for cyclists.  We were told to call a phone number posted on the door.  There was no number so we let ourselves in.  A couple of community members came in to reserve the fire house community room in a community calendar and they told us to make ourselves at home.  As other cyclists had advised us, we located a hot shower and laundry in the back. 

I enjoyed another Hunt Pizza for dinner.  At the firehouse, Matthew and I watched a VHS tape of “The Rundown” with Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, for a bit of mindless entertainment.

In the early morning hours, one of the volunteers apparently came to the fire station to take out a piece of equipment to respond to a local emergency.  After I awoke, I heard the siren in the distance and saw the emergency vehicle zoom past.  Matthew and I were amazed that the individual had taken the vehicle without waking us.

This is yet another example of a cyclist-friendly community.  I plan to write the fire chief a note of thanks when I return. Meanwhile, “thumbs up” to the Utica Fire Department.

Days 21: Utica to Falls of Rough, KY

Today’s ride was 49 miles. It was a good ride.

My legs are generally aching all the time but I’ve gotten used to it.  I pushed through a few days of pain in my right knee (probably due to an overworked ligament).  I kept waiting for the knee to swell but it never did. Matthew can now recite one of my favorite Marine Corps sayings, “Pain is weakness leaving the body.”

Along the route, we came across this fascinating history:

And this is typical of the Kentucky farmland that we biked through.  Today, we enjoyed generally traffic-free roads:

.

When we arrived at the Falls of Rough, we scouted around for suitable camping facilities.  We were attracted to the Corps of Engineer’s run Rough River Axtel Campground because it is situated on a lake.

When we arrived at the entrance gate, Jo the ranger told us that the camp was full since we were heading into Memorial Day Weekend.  At this point, I informed her that I was a disabled veteran and holder of a National Park Service special access card.  She said that she’d find a way to make it work and thankfully gave us a one-day pass for a small campground just down the road.  The facility even had hot showers.  Thank you, Jo, and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Days 22: Falls of Rough to Buffalo, KY

Today’s ride was 55 miles. When I got up after a peaceful night of camping, I was mentally alert but physically fatigued.  My legs felt like they hadn’t rested at all.  Since I knew that I was close to taking a prized day off, I decided to push on to Buffalo, and simply dial back my level of effort along the way.  Fortunately, the landscape consisted of rolling hills on only a couple of gut-wrenching climbs.

Along the way, we met Eastbound Trans’Amrs Kevin and Rosie (Rosie had a Brooklyn accent and bragged about her age (something about Social Security)).

We also decided to take a detour to visit Lincoln’s Birthplace:

As an aside, Matthew likes to have a beer or two at the end of the ride.  I’d watched his frustration grow as we bicycled through dry county after dry county.  Buffalo was yet another such stop.

Our maps don’t list any camping or hostel facilities in Buffalo.  So we decided to stop at the Buffalo Baptist Church and inquire around.  The facility was locked and didn’t have any numbers to call.  So I decided to visit an adjacent house (thinking it might be the Pastor’s home). As I approached the house, a woman named Lisa came out.  She mentioned that her sister-in-law is the church secretary and that she would go to her home to tell her about the visiting cyclists.  

As we waited, Matthew and I went to the sole restaurant in town, Pizza Zone, managed by Beth and her family. I ordered an Italian Sub, which was a very delicious pepperoni pizza rolled into a sandwich.

When we returned to the church, we set up our tents.  Shortly thereafter, Glen, a retired school principal and church member, pulled up and said that we could stay inside.  We were more than comfortable staying in tents but, when he opened the door to the church hall, we immediately pulled up our tents and accepted his offer. Glen offered to reimburse use for dinner and even pay for breakfast.  We declined this latter support.  Matthew almost teared up with the kindness of yet another offer of unimaginable support.

The church hall is the tan building in back of the church:

The hall didn’t have a shower but it had a full kitchen and, one of the most treasured items for any cyclist, an ice machine. Thank you, Bro. David Waddle, Glen, and the Buffalo Baptist Church family!

Days 23: Buffalo to Harrodsburg, KY

Today’s ride was 71 miles. It was a hot and humid day but a good ride nonetheless.  My legs, though fatigued, continued to perform as needed.

I took this photo to show that the hills are getting larger:

As we went through one small town, Matthew and I stopped to admire a convoy of old cars:

I took this photo of rolled hay bales.  As we continued east, the bales were wrapped in white plastic, resembling large marshmallows:

Here’s a photo of a store that I knew Matthew would be inspired by.  As I guessed, he did stop there:

During today’s ride, we ran into our first ACA-organized group of 10 cyclists heading West.  One woman had broken her wrist but had the fortitude to catch up with the group by train two days later to resume riding.  We met the group leader in McDonald’s during a rest stop.

When we arrived in Harrodsburg, we checked in with the local fire station only to find that it is manned full-time, and therefore not available to cyclists. 

We cycled another 2-3 miles out of town to the local community park where we camped.  There we met a young couple from Annapolis who were heading West.

I grabbed a Subway sandwich along the way as dinner.

Since we were in the middle of Memorial Day Weekend, we shared the pavilion with a family that was celebrating their daughter’s high school graduation.  There was also a private party at the adjacent pool, which Matthew walked into unassumingly. Both parties broke up before dark and we enjoyed a quiet night’s rest.

Days 24 and 25: Harrodsburg to Berea, KY

Today’s ride was was 54 miles and included a detour because of a closed bridge over Herrington Lake. Today was a hot day (sunny most of the day) but our effort was fueled by the knowledge that Berea would be a rest day.

There were a few hard climbs along the way but I actually enjoyed cruising through some of the rolling hills.

Our detour brought us to the town of Danville, KY, one of the most impressive towns I’ve visited during the entire TranAmerica journey.  It’s one place that I would come back to visit with my wife.

Here are some historical markers located near historic downtown Danville.

I also met a local wood artist named Duke who was carving a tree truck with symbols of local history.

As we continued on our journey, I took this picture of a rock-lined river that is characteristic of this area of Kentucky:

During one extended climb, I stopped to take this picture of one of the tree-lined roads we cycled along (with deep appreciation for the shade and those sweet smelling honey suckle bushes).

As I was nearing the top of this particular road, a woman named Donna stopped her van and informed me that she owned a bike water stop about a mile away.  She encouraged me to stop.  I thanked her for her kindness.

When I arrived a the top of the road, here’s what I found:

The welcoming signage:

Matthew cooling out in the rest area, complete with iced water and sodas, and snacks.

And the permanent residents on Donna’s property, the Bluegrass Texas Longhorns:

Thank you, Donna, for providing an oasis in the desert!

When we arrived in Berea, Matthew made a beeline to America’s Best Value. He ended up getting the same deal from the owner, Rakesh, that he negotiated with ABVI at our last rest stop.  Thank you, Rakish!

I spent this precious rest day resting the tired muscles, catching up on this blog, and cleaning the bike. 

Since going back to Kansas, I’ve bicycled 1275 miles. My on-the-bike average day is about 57 miles.  I’m feeling great and am looking forward to the last couple of stretches of this journey.

With Subtropical Alberto influencing the weather in the neighborhood, the next few days promise to be exciting ones.  Stay tuned!

Day 7: Eureka to Chanute, KS

Today was a relatively easy 63 mile ride (as easy as 63 miles goes, that is), although it was a bit hot. 

Here’s a picture of Matthew and me at a historical marker, courtesy of a motorist who also stopped at the marker and asked us where we were headed:

Here’s a picture of a piece of very patriotic folk art that I took note of on the side of a building in one of the small towns we passed:

Upon entering the very massive public park complex in Chanute, KS, I was approached by a pastor named Bill who asked me to speak to his bicycling group (ages 12-92) later that evening about what motivated me to ride the TransAmerica Trail.  

After setting up camp and getting cleaned up, I biked over to where the group was meeting and briefly shared my TransAmerica story to date.  I had several individuals from the group stop by my camp later that evening to engage in further conversation.

I cooked camp food that night (Ramen soup and beef stew) since I was too tired to bike into town for a meal.

Days 8 and 9: Chanute to Pittsburg, KS

On Day 8, Matthew and I biked from Chanute to Pittsburg, KS, a distance of about 60 miles. We enjoyed a mostly overcast day.

Along the way, I passed a rare golf course with two golfers enjoying the game.  They appeared to be the only players on the course:

I must admit that I thought it would be nice to be doing something normal like enjoying a game of golf!  And then I biked on…

I also encountered the first train crossing my path:

The Bristol Biker (Matthew Moran) and I continue to follow the buddy system.  We start out together and stop a pre-planned rally points to get a cold drink and agree on the next leg of the journey.  Matthew is a more experienced and skilled cyclist so he is always ahead of me.  He often sends me a text saying where he has stopped.  He especially alerts me if he’s discovered a McDonald’s along the way.  He’s a terrific traveling companion and quite the humorist!

When we arrived in Pittsburg, we decided that the city park was as good as any hotel.  We also decided to add a day of rest.

On the first night, we went to Napoli’s restaurant and enjoyed a fabulous Italian dinner.

At the camp site, we were joined by another cyclist, Bill, who was heading home to Colorado.  We built a fire in the fire pit and Bill entertained us with his ukulele (which he carries on the back of his bike!)

On my rest day, I headed off to the library to record the last blog entry.  I must admit that this trip is going very fast and that some of the details become more foggy over time.  Fortunately, Matthew is available to sharpen the details that I can’t recall.

Day 10: Pittsburg to Ash Grove, KS

Today was a 73-mile day. Shortly after leaving Pittsburg, we crossed into Missouri, the Show Me State:

For the fashion consultants out there, please forgive that my pictures generally show me in the same bicycling outfit.  For this 1/2 of my journey, I downsized to only two biking shorts and two biking shirts. I try to wash out the outfit on a daily basis. If I don’t get to it, the rain is certain to help!

Today was the start of our journey through the Ozark Mountains, dreaded by cyclists across the world for its extreme slopes.  Today provided only a taste of what was to come.

While transiting the Ozarks, Matthew and I tended to take more frequent cold beverage breaks, including at a biker bar we ran across in the middle of nowhere.

When we arrived in Ash Grove at the city park, we were greeted by Mike,  who runs the cyclist hostel on the property.  Two West bound TransAmer’s, Phil and Alan, were there at the hostel as well.

Matthew and I had become so accustomed to camping that we decided to pitch out tents in the adjoining park area. We were not enamored with the thought of sleeping in an air conditioned space.  We thanked Mike, and his wife, Cindy, for their kindness. Mike gave us several helpful recommendations, including shortening our next day’s trip because of the severity of the Ozark Mountain climbs in the area.

For dinner, we ate convenience store chicken, which I rated as worst meal ever on my TransAm journey (ok, maybe I had something similar during the first 1/2 of the journey). 

While we were out shopping, I suspect that some frolicking kids tumbled into my tent, collapsing it.  I later found permanent bends in my tent poles. Try as we might, Matthew and I couldn’t straighten the poles. Fortunately, the tent continues to be serviceable.

Matthew later found two precious items of his missing from the clothes he left drying on a picnic table: a red bandana and a black long sleeve t-shirt (which he used to discourage those pesky mosquitos). 

These were the first mischievous things that happened to our unattended stuff during the journey.  We figured that kids will be kids. Matthew was quick to replace the bandana at the next Walmart opportunity.

Otherwise, we enjoyed a quiet and restful night.

Day 11: Ash Grove to Marshfield, MO

Today, we biked 50 miles through more intense hills.  It was a hard ride and the temperatures and humidity were elevated.  There was a constant threat of rain, which would have been a welcome relief!

I took more breaks along the way to avoid heat exhaustion (I could tell that the heat was getting to me when I would sweat profusely, actually hear my heart pounding during extreme climbs, and notice the feeling a loss in stamina in my legs).  After a few moments in the shade to catch my breath, and a drink of water, I was able to continue nearly as strong as ever.

We crossed paths with a couple of West-bound TransAm’rs. There was an increasing drumbeat to these encounters as more TransAm’rs hit the trail.

Here’s a picture of me as I was crossing U.S. Highway 66:

We camped at the county fairgrounds, near the rodeo area.  Except for the cold showers, this site had everything we needed, including electrical power.  It rained all night and the train whistles were a constant source of irritation for Matthew (I tended to sleep through them).

As we entered town, I noticed a sign for Mongolian BBQ. When we went to dinner, we found that the place was closed.  But there was a Chinese restaurant (more of a diner) open nearby where we feasted on American-style Chinese food.

Day 12: Marshfield to Bendavis, MO

It rained this morning so we had a slow start as we packed our wet camping gear.  We stopped at Casey’s General Store (a chain) for coffee before embarking on a 47-mile journey.

We “enjoyed” 3 impossibly steep climbs but I felt that my climbing abilities were improving with each day.

We stopped in Hartville at LJD’s Cafe where where our server introduced herself as “Amazing Amanda.” This was a great rest break because the place was cool and the Cokes were cold.

I passed sheep, a peacock, and many turtles attempting to cross the road.  There were so many turtles that Matthew and I discontinued our practice of helping them all across the road.  That would have been a dangerous maneuver with all the hills and blind crests.

Although I was a grueling day, I did capture this river scene:

We also entered logging country and began to pull over to allow the unyielding logging trucks to zoom by us, especially as we approached the crest of a hill. For most of our time in Missouri, there were no shoulders along the road.

While the following sign was always a welcome sight in the Rockies, it signaled anxiety for me in the Ozarks.

As compared to the Rockies, I actually achieved greater speeds over shorter distances cruising down the downhill inclines in the Ozarks.  But I quickly learned that every extreme downhill was immediately followed by another extreme uphill.

When we arrived in Bendavis, we went to the local grocery store (more like an agricultural supply store).  We were greeted by the owner, Alan,  who showed us the customary cyclist’s camp site behind the store. We later met co-owner Rebecca and their five kids.

We passed the heat of the afternoon at the store and met some inspiring individuals, like John the rancher, and another John the veteran.  We were treated to a home-cooked meal by a local family, making this the best meal ever during my TransAm journey. This small town with a population of about 7 embraced us as members of their family. 

Matthew and I witnessed Americana at it’s very best! Bendavis stands as my most memorable stop along the TransAm.

We enjoyed another restful night, only to be awoken to the sound of rain (again).

Day 13: Bendavis to Alley Spring, MO

Today, I powered through the multiple climbs over a 55-mile journey. Temperatures were favorable and the skies were mostly overcast.  

I passed four West-bound TransAm’rs. Since I was rapidly descending and they were struggling in their climbs, we didn’t stop to exchange greetings.  There’s an unwritten rule here I guess… don’t unnecessary slow momentum or stifle progress.

The National Park Service Alley Springs Campground is really, really nice, and is situated along the Jack’s Fork River.  The bathrooms and showers are world-class.  

After setting up camp, a motorcycle camper named Albert offered us hamburgers.  And a truck camper named Linda gave us a whole pizza that her sister Lisa had retrieved from an adjacent town.  We were struck by their friendliness and generosity.

We turned in early only to be awakened by a severely hard rain.  This was the most forceful rain I’ve experienced in a tent to date.  My tent didn’t leak a drop.  Matthew was similarly fortunate. 

When we woke up (it was still raining), we counted our blessings that we had each pitched our tents on high spots in our campsite since the lower spots were flooded.  We also noticed that several trees had come down in the storm.

Here are shots of our campground and the adjacent river:

Here we go again… biking with wet camping gear (it’s much heavier than desired)!

Day 14: Alley Spring to Ellington, MO

Today, we intended to bike about 40 miles to Centerville, MO. But after 33 of the most grueling miles on the TransAmerica Trail (to date), even Matthew decided that we’d had enough.  We had been physically and emotionally worn down with extreme climb after extreme climb. As for me, I wasn’t physically shattered but cracks in the glass were evident.

As we were catching our breath in Ellington, a lady named Christy pulled up in her truck and told us about the Chamber of Commerce bike hostel just a block  away. She convinced us to stay in Ellington because the weather was forecast to be wet (ruling out our intention to camp in Centerville) and because Ellington has a grocery store where we could get fresh fruit.

Here’s a picture of a hot, tired, and bit soggy Matthew at the bench where Christy met us. He was checking in with home:

The hostel had a hot shower and camping cots for our sleeping bags.  The adjacent pavilion gave us a place to dry out our drenched camping gear.

We enjoyed outstanding food at Checko’s Mexican Restaurant and helped soothe our aching muscles with a pitcher of margaritas.

We retired early to our cots only to be awaken near midnight by a spontaneous beer party likely involving every one of the young adults that live in the town.  I was amused to hear a variation of music that I can only describe as country rap.  Fortunately, a neighbor came by to encourage the kids to party more quietly. They promptly complied.

It went on to rain for much of the night so we were thankful to be in a dry place.

Day 15: Ellington to Farmington, MO

After a restful night, we decided to push on with the 61 miles to Farmington. We enjoyed coffee at a local cafe before heading out.

It rained for much of the day, providing some relief.  There were a lot more turtles on the road but also a lot more trucks that required us to pull off on the shoulder.  Most of the truckers were very respectful but one or two “buzzed” us to within a few inches, as if to remind us who’s King of the Road.

We took a water break at Missouri State Park HQ. I took a Coke break at a convenience store when I received a text from Matthew that simply said, “Big M.”  He found a McDonand’s just down the road and I sprinted to join him.  I enjoyed a Big Mac meal.

We arrived at Farmington in style.  It’s one of the most sophisticated towns along the route.

As we were arriving at the town’s bike hostel, named Al’s Place in tribute to a local biker who lost his battle to cancer, we met West bound TransAm’r Dan from New Jersey.  The city has dedicated the old city jail, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, in Al’s honor.  After surveying the hostel together, we all agreed that it is a gem of a place and more than worth the suggested donation of $20.   It even has a laundry and locked storage for bicycles.

Here’s a picture of Al’s Place, and a picture of me and Dan:

We ate at the local Bar and Grill, which had a full food menu and impressive bar menu. Dan, 30+ years our junior,  listened attentively to the lessons we shared about biking ergonomics, basic bike tools, on-the-road nutrition, and safety items such as a mirror.  Dan wasn’t enjoying his TransAm experience as much as we were so we were eager to share tips that would enhance the remainder of his journey.

Days 16 and 17: Farmington, MO to Murphysboro, IL

Today, on day 16, we decided to go for broke and ride 85 miles to Murphysboro. The climbing profile was much kinder than previous days. We stopped in St. Marys, MO, and, after crossing the Mississippi River, in Chester, IL, home of Popeye the Sailor.

We took a popular TransAmerica detour along the Mississippi Levee Alternative, which gave us a keen sense of just how fragile agriculture communities along the Big Muddy really are.

Here’s the long and narrow bridge we crossed to get over the Mississippi (it reminded me of the sad shape of U.S. infrastructure–I couldn’t help but inspect the crumbling concrete as I rode along!):

Here’s me at the Illinois line:

Here’s one of the many Popeye tributes in Chester, IL:

After riding the levee system for 20+ miles, we found a bar called the Bottom’s Up in Jacob (vicinity of Neunert), IL, and met BJ, Bob, and other patrons, and Christy the owner.  They advised us to stay put since there was a serious threat of severe weather.  We watched the radar, frequently looked outside, and waited it out for 3 hours, where I consumed cold Cokes and ate lunch (grilled chicken sandwich).  As forecast, the heavens open up in impressive ways. Once again, fortune was with us!

BJ offered us a warm place to stay at his home. He even offered to load up our bikes in his truck and drive us to Murphysboro.  After the main cell passed, we decided to press on by bicycling to Murphysboro.  We made it to town with daylight to spare and without nearly a drop of rain.

Matthew beat me to America’s Best Value Inn where he negotiated a fabulous rate for two rooms for two nights. We appreciate the hospitality of Christian, and his father, motel owner Ramesh, who happens to also be from England.  We enjoyed a great stay.

The first night, we ate at Sergio’s Mexican Restaurant, and the food was superb.  The second night, we ate at the world famous 17th Street BBQ, again enjoying a fabulous meal.

We used the extra day to rest our aching muscles, tune up our bicycles, and get ready for the next week’s journey.  It was a magnificent post-Ozark break!

Day 0: Flying to Garden City, KS

Today, I flew American Airlines from Washington Reagan to Garden City, KS, airport with a connection in Dallas. My day started off with a 5:30 am call from American indicating that my flight to Dallas had been cancelled because of predicted bad weater.  They were trying to rebook me to arrive in Garden City at around 11 pm.  That wouldn’t have been a good way to start so I convinced them to book me on an earlier flight to Dallas so that I could make the same connection that I already had.

My wife drove me to the airport an hour earlier than planned.  After a warm goodbye, I headed into the terminal. 

I was a bit anxious about taking all my electronics, batteries, and freeze-dried foods through TSA but I made it though with ease.

My flight to Dallas was delayed for about 45 minutes and I received a text from American Airlines saying that I was likely to miss my connection to Garden City.  When I arrived at Dallas, I scampered to another terminal to see if my connection was still there.  Although the information screen indicated that the flight was on time, I was relieved when I arrived to find that the connection was actually running late since the pilot had arrived at the airport yet.  

I settled in on the commuter aircraft and enjoyed a “lunch” of airline pretzels and some delicious poundcake baked by my wife.

When I arrived in Garden City, my first challenge was that there are no taxis waiting for arriving passengers.  I called the hotel and found out that Maria owned one of the two taxi companies.  After checking Uber (there was one in town but too expensive and too far away), I called Maria and arranged a pick up in 10 minutes.  While waiting, I noted the stiff wind blowing outside (see picture below):

The wind was blowing from the north and that was the direction that I needed to bike towards the next day.

Since I knew that I would run out of daylight if I was to assemble the bike and ride to Target, I arranged to have Maria drop me off there on the way to the hotel.  She was very gracious in supporting me and I was able to pick up some camping fuel that I had purchased online.

When I arrived at the hotel, I was overjoyed to find my bike in a box stored behind the reception counter.  Here’s a shot of the boxed bike, packed courtesy of Jacob at Bikenetic:

Forgive my unusual excitement about a box, but it’s presence at the right place at the right time demonstrates that the success of this type of endeavor relies on good logistics.  Bikeflights.com is my new go-to company to ship a bike where ever I need it!

After getting to my hotel room, the first thing I did was to uncrate the bike parts.  After a moment of panic when I thought that the front bike rack was missing (it was cradled under the back tire), I was satisfied that everything made it in great shape! 

I ate a burger and fries at a Mexican Restaurant, El Zarape.  I took special note that the beef for the burger was very fresh.  After dinner, I was exhausted, so I decided to assemble the bike and pack all my stuff in the morning.

Day 1: Bicycling to Scott City, KS, to Rejoin the TransAmerica Route

I sprang up at 6 am and assembled the bike and packed my panniers (the bike luggage).  I went for a very satisfying test ride.  I cut up the bike box and tossed it in the dumpster.  I gave Rick at the hotel front desk my luggage and duffel bag that I no longer needed. I consumed coffee, a banana and oatmeal at the breakfast provided by the hotel.  I was on the road by 9:30 am.

For four and one-half hours, I battled the wind riding north to Scott City.  My bike computer died (it must have been accidentally turned on during travel), so I was situationally unaware of how far I had left to go during the journey but I knew that I was heading north. I stopped a couple of times to check Google Maps on my phone. 

The picture below shows the bike with a leaner pack (no backpack in the back). It also shows the 8-feet wide medians that I enjoyed during this particular ride.  Note the direction and ferocity of the wind as shown by the flag:

In spite of the wind, I enjoyed the sights, smells, and sensations of the ride.  I saw and heard blackbirds and greeted two beautiful tan horses and many cows. 

I came across large stockyards.  I guessed from the sign below that these weren’t milking cows:

As I rode up to the fence line, there were many cows there.  As I approached closer, they were unusually skittish, and ran en mass away from me.  I surmised that they could sense that I had eaten one of their kin the night before!

I encountered a very large badger that looked like it was sleeping in the median (I think it was dead but didn’t stop to check).  

I was surrounded by the smell of agriculture and didn’t even mind the wafts of cow manure along the way.  On the negative side, I instinctively braced for potential slime attacks as several swine trucks passed me. But there was no repeat of the slime incident from my past.

In terms of sensations, it was a very peaceful ride.  The legs felt good.  Heart rate and cadence were in the zone.  The bike performed masterfully. I had done everything necessary to ensure a good re-start of this journey.

As I rode into Scott City, I was compelled to stop by the hospital to pay homage to those who treated me there. This photo shows just how beautiful a day it was outside, with temperatures roughly 40 degrees cooler than the last time I was in Scott City.

I planned to stay at the Scott City Athletic Club and was greeted by Debbie upon my arrival.  Debbie was very supportive of me during my last stay at the club, along with her team, Chris, Esme, and Chris (son of the first Chris).  They arranged for me to sleep on a mattress in the gymnasium, a very cool and quiet place.  

I ate a fish sandwich and salad at Tate’s Restaurant. When I returned to the Athletic Club, I recharged my electronics and hit the sack.

Day 2: Back on the TransAmerica Trail!

I was excited to get back on the trail so I got up early, stowed my gear, ate a banana, and hit the road.   It was about 40 degrees outside with a cloudless sky.

During the first hour, the temperature increased 20 degrees. I was passed by only 10 cars and 3 trucks.  I enjoyed a favorable wind.

Over the course of 55 miles to Ness City, KS, I enjoyed a very serene ride. 

Once again, I appreciated scenes of American agriculture at work:

As tractors and other heavy equipment were plowing and tilling the fields, I would either time my approach to avoid the plume of dust (dirt) or simply hold my breath.  The level of effort required to feed us is amazing!

I endeavor to stop at all historical markers along the way.  This one was especially significant to me:

I arrived in Ness City by noon and checked in with the Sheriff’s Office to arrange to camp at City Park.  After cleaning up, I went to the local U.S. Post Office to charge up my devices. I couldn’t help notice the history of this post office:

When I arrived back at camp, I was greeted by another touring cyclist, Matthew Moran, a delightful gentleman from Bristol, England.  Matthew was the first cycling I’ve encountered during this trip and our meeting was a most pleasant surprise. 

Matthew started his journey east in San Francisco, dipping south to capture Route 66 and avoiding the snow-packed mountains to the north.  Matthew was riding to support British veterans (in tribute to his father-in-law who is a veteran) so we made an instant connection. Matthew is married with two sons.  His profession is metal works and he is a foreman.  We retired to the local bar (I drank coke) where we agreed to ride together. 

Leaving Matthew at the bar, I departed to enjoy dinner at a local Mexican Restaurant, eating traditional food this time (it was very good!).

Day 3: Riding With the Bristol Bicyclist!

Today we rode 64 miles to Larned, KS.

The Adventure Cycling Association had posted a detour to avoid a road that had rumble strips installed in the median. On the advice of last year’s bicycling partner, Jayden, we decided to avoid the detour since it entailed gravel roads. Since today is a Sunday, we enjoyed a virtually traffic-free ride, staying on the white line.  Passing motorists were most kind in passing us and we acknowledged their courtesy with a wave of appreciation. On a normal traffic day, I do think that conditions for a bicyclist are more dangerous because the rumble strips take up most of the very narrow median.

Along the way, I noted the growing wind energy business in Kansas:

I also took this picture which reminded me of  a “little house” on the prairie:

As we approached Larned, we ran into another TransAmerica cyclist, Charlie, at a rest stop.  Charlie is originally from Peoria, IL, and lives in Oregon. Charlie started his journey riding trails from Oregon. He was riding a trail bike with fat tires.  He’s a fine carpenter and he has two sons.  Charlie was heading with some urgency to Newton, KS, to rendezvous with his son, Cole.  Charlie decided to join us at our camp in Larned.

After making camp, I enjoyed back-to-back camp lunch and dinner.  Lunch consisted of Ramen soup.  Dinner consisted of beef stew.

As Matthew, Charlie, and I were doing what touring cyclists need to do before sunset, we were approached by a man, David, who drove into the park with a camper. David, who appeared to be quite intelligent, was a bit too curious for comfort. His camper appeared to be minimally serviceable.  David initially said that he had lost his wallet. Then he said that it was his birthday. We made small talk with him but were somewhat guarded with our interaction. David, a self-admitted black sheep of his family, probably just wanted some human contact and we freely shared that with him.

Day 4: OK, Now It’s Getting Hot!

Today we rode 57 miles to Nickerson, KS. It was a windy day. It was a hot day.  And it was a long day!

While the forecast temperature was only supposed to be in the 80’s, I noted over 100 degrees on my bike computer, which registers the heat from the pavement. The locals all said that this heat was unusual for this time of year.

Today wasn’t a picture taking kind of day, but I couldn’t help but capture these very curious cows with white heads:

During the journey as our water was becoming hot and depleted, Matthew and I began knocking on doors of houses along the road to ask for water. 

At the first house, though it was apparent that there was a young man at home, no one came to the door. 

At the second house, a woman named Pam, offered us water and ice.  Pam was more than kind because she responded first to Matthew’s request, then to mine as I pulled up behind Matthew, and finally offered bottled water to Charlie as she and her family were pulling out of their driveway.

Once refreshed, we pushed our way into Nickerson where we set up camp.  That night, we enjoyed bar food at the only place in town. I consumed the recommended double cheeseburger and fries. Promptly at 9 pm, it was evident that the family business was closing so we were politely asked to leave.

Day 5: A Gathering of Adventure Cyclists

Today’s journey consisted of 48 miles to Newton, KS, with cross winds. My legs continued to be strong. Today’s route involved more climbing which didn’t present any special challenge to me.  Matthew is much more adept at climbing since he’s been on the road for five weeks as compared to my five days.

On the way out of Nickerson, we stopped at a diner where I enjoyed fruit and coffee. 

Today’s observation included numerous dead snakes on the road and one very large brown owl sitting on a fence along a tree line.

Our roads had no real shoulders but Kansas driver’s continued to be most considerate. I had to be careful with the impact of pressure waves from trucks going opposite direction.  Those trucks going my way offered a helpful vacuum effect. 

As we passed through the town of Buhler, KS, I noted a red truck with an older gentleman stop across the road and look at us.  He ended up turning around and stopping us in the high school parking lot.  His name is Jim and he used to be a touring cyclist.  It was apparent that seeing us brought back some great memories for him.  He didn’t want to let us go. So we decided to stop in town at Mama Lou’s Cafe where we enjoyed coffee and home-made cinnamon rolls (heated with the recommended butter topping).

After returning to the road, I passed two very majestic horses that seemed excited to see me:

And, as we pulled into Newton, KS, I saw my first TransAmerica sign of this trip:

At the end of today’s trip, I was tired and beginning to feel the effects of multiple days on the road.  But I was confident that I could stay on the road for another couple of days before taking a break.

Charlie reunited with his son, Cole, who he hadn’t seen since last June.  We all enjoyed dinner at Gurty’s Restaurant, where I consumed a salad, Italian hoagie, and fries.  And, upon return to camp, we enjoyed a night of camaraderie and laughter.  Cole entertained us with his rapping.   

Day 6: Camping Under An Unstable Air Mass

Today was the longest ride to date, 75 miles.  Winds were mostly favorable.

My legs were strong through 50 miles and strong enough afterwards. I am actually amazed at the strength and stamina that is evident.  But it was a long day.

After arriving in Eureka, we set up camp at the local park.  It had a swimming pool that was operating but not yet open (it was tempting to climb the fence!).

Matthew and I ventured into town.  We stopped into the local VFW bar and had a nice chat with bartender Phyllis and other patrons, most of whom were veterans. They recommended that we eat at Bennie’s restaurant, where I enjoyed (once again) a salad, burger, and fries. 

Afterwards, I stopped into the convenience store to find out what time they open.  There I was greeted by a retired Navy Chief named Paul.  He noticed my Coast Guard hat and started the conversation with the typical Navy challenge to a Coastie, something about shallow water sailers.  He served for 20 years and was a Master Diver. He said that I was the first Admiral that he ever met. 

After we returned to camp, a retired Navy Senior Chief named David came by to offer us his place to stay since rain was forecasted.  He had heard about me Chief Paul.  We thanked him  for his kindness but said that we planned to stay since our tents were already up.  Our severe weather plan was to duck into the concrete block shower buildings. 

At 1:38 am that night, I awoke to constant lightning flashes.  I emerged from the tent to observe lightning 360 degrees around me.  But I heard no thunder.  I thought that my NOAA radio would sound an alert for severe weather but it didn’t.  Fifteen minutes later, a lightening bolt struck the pool and it started raining hard.  Since there was no real wind associated with the storm, Matthew and I decided to ride it out in our dry tents.  I went back to sleep.

I am hours away from flying to Kansas to resume my journey.  During the last 10 months, I have:

• Recovered fully from shoulder surgery
• Lived as a snowbird in Northern Florida, accumulating training miles on my touring bicycle by riding along the beach against sustained winter winds
• Returned to Northern Virginia to polish off my training rides with some hills and serious slopes while carrying full weight

Because of muscle memory, training wasn’t as hard the second time around. In fact, I feel stronger and more capable as compared to last year.

I shipped my touring bicycle to Kansas using BikeFlights, a marvelously cost-effective method of getting a bike to where it needs to be by the date you desire.

I monitored the weather in Kansas and decided to purchase my plane ticket six weeks beforehand. Considering the recent days of tornados in the area, my timing actually appears to be ideal as the weather will be calmer when I get there.

Upon arrival to Kansas, I’ll assemble the bicycle and ride to the local Target and Walmart to stock up on supplies that couldn’t fly with me (such as camping fuel).  After a night’s rest, I’ll bike 35 miles to the north to catch up with the spot where I left off.

I have about 2000 miles ahead of me through Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Kentucky, and Virginia.  I plan to take a slow and steady approach and have allotted plenty of time for the mission. 

The only serious trepidation I have is about the severe slopes in the Ozark and Appalachian Mountains. I take some solace in the thought that some of the most challenging climbs in the Rockies involved several thousand of feet of elevation gain spread over 20 miles. This often involved climbing for most of the day in a state of prolonged physical and mental anguish. 

The anguish might be more pronounced since slopes in the Ozarks and Appalachians can be twice what is typical in the Rockies, but I don’t expect the anguish to be as prolonged. For instance, the most severe climb on this half of the journey involves 2000 feet of elevation gain spread over 3.5 miles. And this most daunting challenge is located towards the end of the journey so my legs and my mental state should be prepared by then. This element of the challenge is one of the reasons I’m pursuing this quest. I don’t like biking up mountains, especially on a loaded touring bike, but I know that it is good for me.  So I’ve embraced the goal to “Conquer Mount Vesuvius.”

I plan to update the blog with new entries and pictures on about a weekly basis.  Thanks for tracking my progress.  I appreciate your encouraging online comments as well.

For those of you who are newcomers to this blog, I recommend that you read the older posts from the bottom up to get the context for what I am doing and why, and to get a sense of my earlier adventures. I appreciate your interest as well.

During a recent trip to Florida, I had the opportunity to bicycle along the Jacksonville Beaches.  While not my intent, I ended up logging over 25 miles during one session.  Even with a stiff ocean breeze, the ride felt really good. 

While I expected to experience a bit of trepidation with this first extended road outing since my accident, I had none. I guess that my “No Fear” instincts remain intact after my TransAmerica mishap. In my world, that’s all good, even if it’s a bit crazy!

My rule has always been that if you can bike 20 miles, then you can bike 100. Physically, this is a good baseline as I prepare to return to the TransAmerica Trail in the late spring.

Now that the leaves are falling in Virginia, I’ll stick with the bicycle trainer until I return to Florida in the winter. I look forward to logging many more miles along the beach.